Tuesday

11-04-2025 Vol 2134

Bay Area Chefs Share Their Indispensable Cookbooks

Choosing a favorite cookbook is a challenging task for chefs, akin to asking a parent to select their favorite child.

Each cookbook contains unique techniques, ingredients, and stories that have shaped their culinary journeys.

For Bay Area chefs, these books aren’t just used for inspiration; they serve as vital resources that have guided them toward Michelin-starred success and James Beard Awards.

Here’s a look at eleven cookbooks that Bay Area chefs consider essential in their culinary lives.

Richard Lee, executive chef at Saison, swears by “Grand Livre De Cuisine: Alain Ducasse’s Culinary Encyclopedia.”

Early in his career, a fellow cook advised him to purchase this monumental volume, which boasts an extensive collection of classic French recipes, techniques, and the history of gastronomy.

Lee, who leads the acclaimed two-Michelin-starred restaurant Saison, emphasizes the respect he has for Ducasse’s work.

He appreciates the opportunity to draw inspiration from classic cooking while experimenting with modern techniques and ingredients.

Yet, he acknowledges that the encyclopedia may not be user-friendly for the average home cook, stating, “I really enjoy nerding out on it.”

Dana Younkin, the executive chef at Boulevard, names “Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art” by Shizuo Tsuji as her must-have cookbook.

Younkin’s connection to this book is rooted in nostalgia, recalling how she cooked from it in her mother’s kitchen.

The detailed explanations of Japanese cuisine and techniques have made this book a staple in her cooking repertoire, reinforcing her love for the art of Japanese culinary traditions.

Although she has a collection of cookbooks she relies on, she admits that Tsuji’s book holds a special place in her library due to its historical insights and thorough descriptions.

Sayat Ozyilmaz, chef and owner of Dalida, deems “On Food and Cooking” by Harold McGee as one of his essential resources.

As an endlessly curious chef, Ozyilmaz finds himself diving into McGee’s work during his downtime, exploring topics such as starch conversion and the life cycles of fruits and vegetables.

This knowledge not only inspires new menu items but also equips his staff with a comprehensive understanding of unique Eastern Mediterranean dairy products like halloumi and crème fraiche.

Sincere Justice, the chef and owner of Tacos Sincero, credits “Bar Tartine: Techniques and Recipes” by Nicolaus Balla and Cortney Burns for transforming his culinary perspective.

The 2018 cookbook encourages readers to build a well-stocked larder, making the process of creating dishes more intuitive.

Justice finds immense value in the richly researched ideas presented in the book, such as the use of koji in fermentation and blending cultural influences.

He describes it as a revolutionary cookbook that was ahead of its time and showcases the importance of marrying seemingly disparate culinary traditions.

James Yuen Leong Parry, chef and owner of The Happy Crane, recounts how “Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China” by Fuchsia Dunlop sparked his passion for cooking.

Before entering the culinary world, Parry found himself captivated by Dunlop’s memoir, which chronicles her experiences learning Sichuan cuisine in China.

This book opened his eyes to the possibilities of a cooking career, and he frequently acknowledges both his friend who gifted it to him and Dunlop herself for inspiring him to pursue his culinary dreams.

Kristina Costa, the pastry chef at Loquat, cherishes “Tartine Bread” by Chad Robertson as a foundational text in her baking journey.

After a challenging experience with desserts, her interest in bread-making led her to a bakery where she discovered a well-worn copy of Robertson’s book.

The book captivated her and solidified her desire to explore baking as a medium for artistic expression, combining hard work and creativity.

Although she relies on it less frequently now, she credits it with shaping her identity as a baker and serving as a vital influence in her career development.

Suki Skye, the owner of Dacha, uses “Illustrated Quick Cook” by Heather Winney as her go-to cookbook for home cooking.

While she finds inspiration in other cookbooks, such as “Budmo! Recipes from a Ukrainian Kitchen” by Anna Voloshyna, Winney’s practical recipes and time-saving techniques make her book a frequently used resource.

Skye appreciates the straightforward approach in “Illustrated Quick Cook,” as it allows her to prepare healthy and satisfying meals with ease.

Jason Halverson, chef and owner of The Vault Steakhouse, considers “La Technique” by Jacques Pépin an indispensable reference for revisiting fundamental cooking skills.

Despite being first published in 1978, Halverson asserts that this classic remains relevant for both novice and seasoned chefs alike.

Early in his career, the celebrated chef Roland Passot handed him a copy, and since then, Halverson has returned to the book periodically when he wishes to ground himself in the basics of cooking.

He finds that the techniques outlined in Pépin’s work serve as the foundation for modern practices and maintain their value through time.

Val Cantu, chef and owner of Californios, highlights “El Cocinero Español” by Encarnación Pinedo as a significant influence in his career.

As the first Mexican American cookbook published in the United States in 1898, this work offers insights into the innovative and complex cuisine of California-born Mexicans during the Gold Rush.

Cantu appreciates Pinedo’s use of local ingredients and techniques, which help him feel empowered to explore his own culinary passions while crafting the menu for Californios.

He remarks that the recipes and lessons from this landmark cookbook remain relevant today.

Nicole Krasinski, a renowned pastry chef and owner of State Bird Provisions, The Progress, and The Anchovy Bar, believes “The Last Course” by Claudia Fleming is an essential resource for pastry chefs.

In preparation for her first job in 2001, she thoroughly reviewed Fleming’s dessert-focused book, which resonated with her developing style.

Krasinski emphasizes that Fleming was the first to write a cookbook that spoke directly to professional pastry chefs, emphasizing the importance of restraint and simplicity in dessert presentation.

She recommends this book to all her pastry assistants, referring to it as “pastry plating 101” and a source of creative inspiration.

Maz Naba, owner of Ilna, found it challenging to select a single essential cookbook due to the plethora of influential titles available.

However, he ultimately decided on “The Lebanese Cookbook” by Salma Hage, recognizing its profound impact on his culinary practice.

With more than 500 Levantine recipes, this book has played a vital role in reigniting his passion for the cuisine he has grown up eating.

Naba discovered the book while browsing through Green Apple Books and has since returned to it repeatedly for its depth and inspiration in Levantine cooking.

In essence, these eleven cookbooks not only represent the personal journeys of each chef but also serve as pivotal resources that define their professional practices and culinary philosophies.

From classic French techniques to gastronomical explorations of foreign cultures, these titles illustrate how cookbooks can shape and inspire the art of cooking in today’s culinary landscape.

image source from:sfstandard

Benjamin Clarke