Los Angeles is bidding farewell to one of its oldest culinary and cultural institutions: Cole’s French Dip, which is set to close on August 2.
Founded in 1908 by Harry Cole in downtown’s historic Pacific Electric building, the bar and restaurant is recognized for inventing the French dip sandwich, a culinary staple said to have originated when a chef dipped bread into au jus for a patron with chewing difficulties.
Although another establishment, Philippe the Original in Chinatown, disputes this claim, Cole’s has maintained a prominent place in the fabric of Los Angeles history.
Over the decades, Cole’s has attracted a diverse clientele, becoming particularly renowned for its blue-collar crowd, which included famous patrons like poet Charles Bukowski.
Bukowski, known for his hard-drinking lifestyle and unapologetic writing, famously left a mark on the establishment, with a restroom plaque stating, “Charles Bukowski pissed here,” drawing attention from literary tour guides and visitors alike.
I often imagine Bukowski, sitting at the bar with a drink and scribbling away on a napkin, a scene I can relate to, having frequented the establishment since 1999.
When I first moved to Los Angeles, downtown was still on the decline, but Cole’s had managed to retain a sense of charm amidst its struggles.
As a musician, I played a few shows in Cole’s back room and quickly developed a fondness for what was then a true dive bar — a refuge where artists, musicians, and the occasional unhoused patrons mingled.
I recall a night when a musician invited me to his downtown loft, showcasing a chaotic labyrinth of thousands of records, a testament to the creative spirit that thrived in places like Cole’s.
The bar has long been a haven for outcasts and artists, where everyone had a story to share, and the atmosphere encouraged candid conversations and unexpected friendships.
My last visit before it was restored by downtown bar magnate Cedd Moses was memorable for the wrong reasons — a rat scurried past my foot as I sat on a torn, tufted banquette.
Despite my love for dive bars, that moment proved too much, even for me.
Moses, whose family has a deep affinity for dive bars, revitalized Cole’s while honoring its historical significance, as part of his broader efforts to restore integral nightlife spots in downtown Los Angeles.
His 213 Nightlife Group, now known as Pouring With Heart, played a vital role in the gentrification and revival of downtown’s nightlife leading up to the pandemic.
With downtown now experiencing similar challenges as in the 1980s and 90s, it’s crucial to reflect on what these changes mean for the artistic community.
It’s hopeful that periods of decline can also lead to a resurgence of artists relocating to affordable spaces, perhaps enabling a rallying effort to save Cole’s amidst its impending closure.
I’m Jessica Gelt, an arts and culture writer, and while a line now often forms to get into Cole’s, I encourage you to visit — the experience is surely worth the wait.
Make sure to bring a good book and a sketch pad to honor the institution that has served so many creatives over the years.
In lighter news, there are exciting events happening in Los Angeles this week.
The film “Kill Bill: The Whole Bloody Affair” will be presented by Quentin Tarantino, showcasing a rare screening of the complete version of his acclaimed martial arts epic.
This version combines both volumes of the story with additional scenes, all in Tarantino’s personal 35mm print from the Cannes Film Festival, featuring French subtitles.
Catch it from July 28 at the Vista Theater.
Meanwhile, at the J. Paul Getty Museum, curator Davide Gasparotto will discuss the influential Italian artist Artemisia Gentileschi, highlighting her impactful works during her time in Naples.
This event is scheduled for Saturday at 2 p.m.
On Saturday evening, country music legend George Strait will take the stage at SoFi Stadium, accompanied by Chris Stapleton and Little Big Town, promising an unforgettable night focused on his latest album, “Cowboys and Dreamers.”
Another highlight is the TaikoProject’s 25th anniversary concert at the Walt Disney Concert Hall, featuring a diverse lineup, including the Grammy-winning Latinx group Quetzal and soloist Sumie Kaneko.
Don’t miss filmmaker Lina Soualem’s documentary “Bye Bye Tiberias,” which explores the history and evolving definition of home through the lens of four generations of Arab women, screening on Saturday evening at UCLA.
For theater enthusiasts, the Echo Theater Company presents the West Coast premiere of “Berta, Berta,” a moving love story set in 1920s Mississippi, running from July 19 to August 25.
In addition, American Ballet Theatre will perform the romantic ballet “Giselle” at the Segerstrom Center for the Arts, with shows across multiple days from July 25 to July 27.
Reflecting on the broader Southern California music scene, the Los Angeles Philharmonic has recently opened its 103rd season at the Hollywood Bowl, facing challenges including lower attendance and show cancellations.
Critics note a general uneasiness that has settled over the city in recent months, complicating the usual excitement surrounding such events.
Meanwhile, a jukebox musical entitled “A Beautiful Noise” pays tribute to Neil Diamond’s iconic songs and is currently performing at the Hollywood Pantages Theatre.
The New Hollywood String Quartet celebrated its 25th anniversary with a festival that highlighted the legacy of studio musicians from Hollywood’s golden age.
Additionally, two theatrical shows at Theatricum Botanicum present fresh context to classics, with reimagined interpretations of themes from the past.
In culture news, the Hammer Museum has resumed its annual summer concert series, offering free shows and fostering community engagement.
Ann Philbin, former director of the Hammer Museum, has received this year’s Getty Prize and chosen to donate its grant to support NPR and local Los Angeles stations like KCRW.
The anticipation builds for Andrew Lloyd Webber’s “Jesus Christ Superstar” at the Hollywood Bowl, with casting announcements keeping the excitement alive.
Additionally, the Carpenter Center has unveiled its 2025–2026 season, featuring an array of performances, including a concert with Sandra Bernhard and Mandy Patinkin.
As we celebrate and reflect on the artistic spirit of Los Angeles, it’s essential to remember the places that have fostered creativity — Cole’s being a significant chapter in that narrative.
As we say goodbye, may we also embrace the opportunities for new arts and culture to arise in its wake.
image source from:latimes