In the heart of Chinatown, the newly opened Cafe Tondo stands as a vibrant tribute to Mexican and Latino culture, illuminated by warm pink lighting that envelops its concrete floors. The cafe, set to officially open on July 25, transforms the former Oriel location under the A Line train tracks, offering the community a fresh destination for everything from early morning coffee to evening salsa dancing.
Founded by a collaborative team led by Abraham Campillo, a first-time restaurateur and co-founder of Mouthwash Studio, Cafe Tondo expresses a deep connection to community and hospitality. Campillo emphasizes the decline of public gathering spaces, a phenomenon he sees as exacerbated by digital technology’s isolating effects. With Cafe Tondo, he aims to create a space reminiscent of Latin American and European cafes, where patrons can easily transition from espresso to wine, savoring the art of lingering.
The menu at Cafe Tondo draws inspiration from Campillo’s childhood and the culinary experiences of Chef Valeria Velásquez, who brings a rich background from her time working in notable establishments around the world. From piloncillo and cinnamon-infused cafe de olla in the morning to crispy Milanesa in the evening, Velásquez’s creations celebrate the diversity and vibrancy of Latino cuisine.
Velásquez highlights the significance of her cultural heritage, stating, “It’s like a celebration of Latino culture, especially Mexico City’s vibrant culture.” Her journey from Colombia to Mexico City has shaped her culinary style, marking Cafe Tondo as her inaugural project as head chef in the United States.
The cafe opens its doors at 7 a.m., serving a variety of beverages including drip coffee from Verve, hot chocolate, and suero—a classic Mexican drink. The pastry case, featuring delightful conchas, pan de muerte, and pan de elote, showcases Velásquez’s recipes, bringing a taste of tradition alongside comforting breakfast options like chilaquiles and huevos al gusto.
As the sun sets, the offerings shift to an afternoon menu featuring cocktails, spritzes, and beer. Guests can choose from cheladas, micheladas, or a refreshing mocktail option, alongside lighter fare like Colombian empanadas and tortas, ensuring there’s something for everyone to enjoy.
Dinners at Cafe Tondo focus on simplicity with just two larger plates: chicken Milanesa served with arugula salad and steak frites finished with chimichurri. Velásquez shares her fondness for Milanesa, noting, “It’s something that is so international, but also so close to home.”
Dessert is a noteworthy affair as well, with a revamped dim sum cart offering affogato de olla, further highlighting the intersection of cultures within the cafe’s culinary lineup.
Designed by Aunt Studio, which has previously designed Mouthwash’s headquarters, Cafe Tondo retains original architectural elements from its past as a tire shop, massage parlor, and restaurant. This thoughtful design choice maintains a sense of history while creating an inviting, modern atmosphere that embodies the warmth and vibrancy of Latino culture.
As evenings arrive, the cafe comes alive with neon lights, setting an inviting ambiance that reflects the community spirit Campillo hoped to foster. Seating options include a central gray stone bar, cushioned banquettes, and an outdoor patio that flows seamlessly into the dining area, offering both walk-in visits and reserved experiences for private events.
Campillo’s vision for Cafe Tondo isn’t solely focused on providing delicious food and drink but also on enhancing the community through affordable options. All breakfast menu items are priced under $20, and he aims to create an inclusive atmosphere where everyone feels welcome, regardless of their financial situation.
In keeping with his commitment to the community, Campillo, during the transition from Oriel, retained the kitchen staff, providing them support throughout the closure. His intention goes beyond mere business; he wants Cafe Tondo to serve as a gathering place that celebrates local life while remaining accessible to all.
In addition to food and drink, Cafe Tondo will also become a performance space, with plans for regular events like Sunday jazz sessions and dance nights featuring bolero and salsa music. Campillo expresses excitement at creating a lively spot for the community, envisioning afternoons spent enjoying conchas and coffee evolving into lively evenings filled with music and dance.
Brimming with personal touches, Campillo describes Cafe Tondo as “a very personal thing,” filled with art from his home that adds to the overall atmosphere of familiarity and warmth. He hopes that by sharing his culture and experiences, Cafe Tondo will resonate with both locals and visitors alike.
As the opening day approaches, there’s a sense of anticipation surrounding Cafe Tondo. The cafe is poised to stand out as a unique sanctuary for communal gatherings, culinary exploration, and cultural celebration. At a time when public spaces for connection are dwindling, this new venue serves not only as a restaurant but as a hopeful emblem of togetherness in the Chinatown neighborhood of Los Angeles.
Cafe Tondo will initially operate from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday, and 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, with extended hours on Friday and Saturday until 2 a.m. Beginning August 1, the cafe will open daytime hours from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday, with late-night operations on Friday and Saturday until 2 a.m. For those looking to explore this new culinary space, Cafe Tondo can be found at 1135 N. Alameda Street, Los Angeles, CA 90012.
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