New York City’s dining landscape features a two-tiered system that often favors the elite, granting them easier access to the hottest tables at renowned restaurants like Carbone, Semma, and Tatiana. For everyday diners, however, securing a reservation can be a Herculean task, requiring strategic timing and often a willingness to pay a premium through third-party booking sites.
While visiting the East Coast earlier this month for family time and outdoor adventures in southern Vermont, I was thrilled to carve out time for a date night in New York City, thanks to my in-laws watching the kids.
One restaurant I yearned to experience was Le Veau d’Or, the oldest French bistro in New York City. This establishment, recently revitalized by the team behind popular modern bistros like Frenchette and Le Rock, is a historical gem featuring mouthwatering dishes. Unfortunately, when reservation slots were released weeks in advance, they vanished in an instant, leaving me regretting my planning.
Despite the initial disappointment, my partner and I decided to journey to the restaurant in hopes of snagging a table. We enjoyed a leisurely walk through Central Park, punctuated by a visit to the newly reopened Frick Collection and an afternoon movie at Lincoln Center.
To our surprise and delight, as we descended the stairs into the nearly 90-year-old restaurant, we were warmly welcomed. We were presented with the choice of a cozy table in a dining room or a spot at the five-seat bar, where the inviting Maraschino-red leather stools beckoned us.
The ambiance at Le Veau D’or is enchanting, accentuated by an anachronistic menu featuring charming illustrations and dishes with playful titles. The bartender explained the quirks of the menu, including the significance—or lack thereof—of alternating red and black print. The food itself is a glorious reminder of classic French cuisine.
Anthony Bourdain once described Le Veau d’Or in his show “No Reservations” as “a time warp back to France of the ‘30s and ‘40s,” showcasing traditional dishes like pâté en croûte and tripes à la mode. A $125 prix fixe menu offered us an opportunity to choose an appetizer, main course, and dessert, with a simple intermezzo salad for the table.
With an intriguing selection of 16 starters available, we were tempted by the traditional favorites. We opted for a half dozen little neck clams, accompanied unexpectedly by delicate chipolata sausages nestled in spiced oil. We also ordered the mouclade vadouvan, a dish of steamed mussels in a fragrant cream sauce with curry spices—truly the best mussels I have ever tasted.
For the main courses, the offerings seemed more mainstream at first glance, including hanger steak frites. However, upon closer inspection, the dishes revealed idiosyncrasies reflecting the restaurant’s character. The duck magret, garnished with sweet cherries and dusted with a pepper mix, surprised us with its flavor complexity. Another standout was the homard macédoine, a unique presentation of lobster meat served in a shell filled with finely diced vegetables.
The drink menu was equally notable. The martini “Our Way,” featuring a high-proof mix of dry gin and sherry vermouth, is served with a sidecar of the same vermouth spritzed with Spanish mineral water that adds a delightful twist. To cleanse our palates between courses, we enjoyed a refreshing trou Normand, a chilled Armagnac with green apple juice, elegantly served in a glass bucket of pebble ice.
For dessert, we were captivated by the chilled melon soup, but could not resist the allure of an Île Flottante, a classic dessert of soft meringue topped with slivers of toasted almond, swimming in a pool of crème Anglaise. It is a dish rarely encountered these days, and it encapsulated the thrilling revival of these seemingly outdated French classics.
Le Veau d’Or’s success raises questions about the fate of Portland’s historic dining venues. Some of the city’s defining restaurants find themselves at a turning point; with notable closures in recent years, can a similar revitalization occur at Dan & Louis Oyster Bar, another long-standing establishment?
As our evening drew to a close at Le Veau d’Or, I noticed chef and co-owner Nasr seated at the bar, reviewing a list of names alongside reservation times—a task indicative of the restaurant’s high demand and arguably, its exclusive nature. The presence of a red telephone behind the bar, ostensibly for VIPs to reserve tables, was more decorative than functional, hinting at a hospitality culture prevalent in older, cherished venues.
Le Veau d’Or operates lunch from Tuesday to Friday and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday, located at 129 E. 60th St. in New York City. Despite its charm, accessibility remains a concern. The entrance involves navigating a short flight of stairs with no ramp, though staff assistance is provided for those with wheelchairs. Additionally, the restrooms, situated behind the bar, are not accessible, adding another layer for potential diners to consider.
A variety of vegetarian options are available among the starters, including a salad, a small omelet, and artichokes a la Greque, while vegetarian mains on my visit were limited to vegetable-stuffed cabbage rolls.
Public transportation options are convenient, as several bus routes and subway lines, including the MTA’s 4, 5, 6, N, R, and W trains, all stop within a block of the restaurant, making it accessible to a wide range of diners who can traverse the journey into New York City.
In summary, a night at Le Veau d’Or not only celebrates the artistry of traditional French cuisine but showcases the potential for revitalization in classic dining institutions. As the restaurant community evolves, it faces both challenges and opportunities, and Le Veau d’Or stands as a shining example of how heritage can be honored while breathing new life into culinary experiences.
image source from：oregonlive
