Saturday

08-02-2025 Vol 2040

Legacy Pizzerias in Portland Stage Comebacks Amidst Competition

In the bustling city of Portland, renowned as the Pizza Capitol of the U.S., legacy pizzerias face fierce competition from an ever-expanding array of new establishments. With a rich history of unique dining experiences, Portland’s veteran pizza spots like American Dream Pizza and East Glisan Pizza Lounge have become cornerstones of their neighborhoods. Recently, both have undergone surprising closures only to make triumphant comebacks with refreshing updates.

American Dream Pizza, boasting nearly 40 years of service, is among the city’s oldest pizza establishments. Many Portlanders have cherished memories tied to its quirky charm, which offered a more authentic alternative to chains like Pizza Hut and Round Table. The pizzeria closed unexpectedly last July, prompting nostalgia and hope among its loyal customers—including some who fantasized about revitalizing the beloved spot.

Amy and Dan Northrup, longtime fans of American Dream, deeply felt the loss. “The Dream was our favorite pizza place,” Amy recollected, recounting their regular visits since the early 2000s. After the sudden closure, they waited for someone to step in and save the iconic pizzeria. When no one emerged, they decided to take action.

Enlisting the help of Chris Pfeifer, who brought valuable experience in food and hospitality, the Northrups came together to reopen American Dream Pizza on June 24, rebranding it as “Original Dream Pizza.” They chose the new name to avoid confusion with another restaurant using the American Dream name in Corvallis. “It was less important to us than the 40-year legacy,” Amy said, emphasizing their intention to maintain the essence of the original establishment while improving it.

The pizzeria retains its signature decor, featuring hand-drawn art, custom neon signs, and ’70s resin tables. However, due to concerns about cleanliness, the beloved Converse shoe mobile had to be removed after an incident involving a fallen shoe and a pizza. The new menu focuses on build-your-own pizzas, revising classic offerings while introducing nostalgic touches aimed at honoring the location’s history.

Just a mile away, East Glisan Pizza Lounge, which opened its doors in 2014, quickly became a local favorite for its New York-style pizza. Its lively atmosphere, complete with a full bar and art that celebrates geek culture, fostered a sense of community among its patrons. Known as one of the first pizzerias in Portland to serve Detroit-style pizza, East Glisan was a staple in the Montavilla neighborhood but faced an unexpected closure in April that shocked locals.

Co-owner Kristin Brown explained the sudden nature of their decision. A family crisis prompted the team to reevaluate their ability to continue operating. “Everything blew up,” she said, detailing how internal struggles and pandemic pressures accumulated over the years, leading to low morale and severe financial challenges.

While the restaurant had grown to employ 22 staff members, profitability dwindled, and tensions escalated, ultimately resulting in a leadership crisis that affected daily operations. Brown acknowledged the abrupt closure as a necessary response to their untenable situation, although it inadvertently unveiled longstanding issues within the business.

Fortunately, East Glisan successfully reopened on May 5, adopting a fresh approach with an entirely new staff and an emphasis on open communication regarding workplace culture. Catering to the evolving demands, the menu was simplified, dropping high-cost items while enhancing carry-out and delivery options. Additionally, new vegan and gluten-free alternatives were introduced, reflecting current culinary trends.

Chef Adam Maxwell joined the team, bringing with him a wealth of experience from other reputable pizzerias. The changes he implemented, while subtle, have resulted in enhanced flavor and presentation. The revamped New York-style pizza now boasts a crunchier crust, while the Detroit-style pies feature a buttery chewiness paired with a rich crown of cheese. Enhancements were also made to the marinara sauce, imbuing it with additional flavors that elevate the overall dining experience.

In their first weeks post-reopening, the East Glisan team was greeted with warmth and enthusiasm from devoted regulars. “Our first weeks back were full of hugs and tears,” Brown joyfully recounted, reflecting on the outpouring of support from the community. Acknowledging their past missteps, the team has been transparent about the challenges they faced and the steps taken to rectify those issues.

Both American Dream Pizza and East Glisan Pizza Lounge exemplify the resilience of local businesses in Portland’s vibrant culinary scene. As they forge a new path, these pizzerias are not just reviving their offerings; they are celebrating their histories and the loyal communities that have supported them throughout the years. In a city renowned for its culinary innovation, the revival of these legacy pizzerias speaks volumes about the power of nostalgia and community support.

image source from:wweek

Abigail Harper