James Yeun Leong Parry is getting ready to open the doors to his highly anticipated restaurant, The Happy Crane, located at 451 Gough St. in Hayes Valley.
Scheduled to welcome its first guests on August 8, the restaurant is stirring excitement in the culinary community.
When we met on a chaotic Wednesday afternoon just a week before the opening, the space was far from complete.
Tables were piled high with ceramic dishes, floor-to-ceiling windows were covered with large sheets of paper, and numerous bottles of wine and spirits cluttered the bar area.
Parry, however, is radiating enthusiasm amid the disorder.
“I’m finally starting to get excited,” he commented, absorbing the vibrant, pre-opening energy.
He reflects on how the restaurant is beginning to take shape, saying, “Oh, shit, this actually looks like a restaurant.”
The Happy Crane promises to be one of the most significant restaurant openings in San Francisco this year, thanks to its prime location and Parry’s impressive culinary background.
His culinary journey is noteworthy: before launching The Happy Crane as a pop-up in 2023, he honed his skills at famed establishments, including Benu, a three-Michelin-star restaurant by Corey Lee.
Parry also gained experience in Michelin-level venues across Hong Kong and Tokyo, fostering his development as a chef.
What’s intriguing is that Parry’s rise in the culinary world was not solely due to years of experience or a prestigious educational background.
Instead, it was his proficiency in multiple languages that proved instrumental in landing his first high-profile kitchen job.
“I think it was out of sheer innocence that I applied for a job at Bo Innovation,” he shared in a British accent, a vestige of his upbringing in London and Hong Kong.
Parry didn’t have a formal culinary education and was relatively unaware of the significance of working in a three-Michelin-star environment.
His linguistic abilities — he speaks Cantonese, Mandarin, and English — placed him in a unique position that opened doors.
Growing up in Hong Kong, Parry’s family environment did not include much home-cooked food due to limited kitchen space, which shaped his perspective on culinary aspirations.
He recalls a childhood moment when he found The Usborne First Cookbook, which sparked his interest in cooking.
Though his initial dream was to pursue a career in business, everything changed when he started preparing dinners for his friends during his studies in London.
It was his introduction to traditional Chinese cooking that ultimately redirected his career path.
Following his graduation, he made the unconventional choice to seek an opportunity in culinary instruction rather than a more typical job teaching English abroad.
This led him to collaborate with a culinary instructor in Beijing, a venture that didn’t pan out but clarified his desire to cook professionally.
Upon returning to Hong Kong, he applied for a position at Bo Innovation, the beginning of a pivotal development in his career.
He initially began working in the front of the house, where his multilingual skills proved beneficial, but soon transitioned to the kitchen.
Within two years he gained considerable experience, including the chance to help open a London outpost for the restaurant group.
After a brief period back in Hong Kong, sleeping on his sister’s floor, he sought a new direction.
Inspired by the documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, he sought out opportunities in some of the best kitchens, eventually landing a position at RyuGin, a prestigious kaiseki restaurant in Hong Kong.
That experience marked a turning point for him, transitioning from a cook to a chef.
Parry’s career trajectory took an important leap after a chance encounter with Corey Lee, which led him to Benu in San Francisco.
With The Happy Crane set to open, Parry is eager to create a different kind of dining experience than those associated with high-pressure Michelin-star restaurants.
His approach to The Happy Crane is distinct: he wants a space that balances between high-volume establishments and overly formal tasting-menu restaurants.
“I don’t want to do that really serious Michelin gig. I don’t aspire to be that,” he affirms.
He envisions The Happy Crane as a place that values local and seasonal ingredients while employing straightforward, thoughtful culinary techniques.
In preparation for the opening, Parry has installed a massive wok and a high-capacity gas-and-coal-fired oven aimed at perfecting Peking-style ducks.
His menu will reinterpret labor-intensive street foods and dim sum favorites, featuring innovative spins on traditional dishes.
One example includes using coppa and rose wine chicken liver mousse within fluffy housemade bao buns, diverging from the usual char siu.
The restaurant plans to mill its own rice for making bouncy rice rolls filled with crab, while roasted pork belly will make a standout siu yuk, accompanied by miso hot mustard and a tomato relish.
With reservations already nearly filled since going live on OpenTable on July 24, the buzz around The Happy Crane is undeniable.
Reflecting on the experiences that brought him to this moment — from pivotal life decisions to seemingly inconsequential jobs — Parry acknowledges it fostered a strong work ethic.
He believes that adaptability is essential for his high-profile debut’s success.
“It sounds like I had no plan,” he laughs, “and it kind of has been a little bit like that. I just kind of roll with it.”
As the opening day approaches, excitement builds for what The Happy Crane will bring to San Francisco’s dining scene.
image source from：sfstandard
