Wednesday

08-20-2025 Vol 2058

Bar Chinois Opens New Location in National Landing, Dishes Up a Fusion of Flavors

Bar Chinois, the celebrated eatery known for its blend of French-inspired cocktails and Chinese small plates, has officially opened its second location in National Landing, Arlington, as of June.

The excitement among food enthusiasts is palpable, especially for those who savor dumplings.

On a busy Friday evening, patrons can indulge in a variety of delectable dishes starting with juicy pork and shrimp wontons, elegantly floating in a sesame-soy vinaigrette enhanced with chili oil.

Following that is the chicken and shrimp shumai, which boasts a crunchy texture thanks to the addition of water chestnuts and carrots, topped with crispy fried garlic.

Guests can enhance their dining experience with artfully crafted cocktails, such as a martini prepared with olive brine and Shaoxing wine, or try the tequila-based Coco Marseille flavored with fresh basil, Suze French bitters, lime juice, and coconut.

As the evening progresses, the kitchen’s standout dish, the chive dumplings, arrives.

These dumplings feature a delightful soft texture reminiscent of traditional turnip cakes, packed with chopped garlic chives and steamed before being deep-fried, resulting in a dish that bursts with fresh, herbaceous flavors.

A sambal-laced soy and black vinegar dipping sauce perfectly complements these delightful bites.

The culinary vision behind Bar Chinois stems from two talented chefs: Prapavadee “Lekki” Limvatana and Satang Ruangsangwatana, both of whom have been building their impressive careers in the food industry since meeting at D.C. Noodles in 2011.

Limvatana, hailing from a Hainanese-Thai family in Uttaradit, Thailand, grew up in an environment rich in culinary culture, while Ruangsangwatana, a self-taught cook, offers his own unique spin on flavors from his upbringing in Bangkok.

The duo has previously collaborated on several projects, including a food truck and a supper club, and is now preparing to launch a new endeavor in Bethesda named Six Ways to Sunday.

The decision to expand into Arlington came when developer JBG Smith sought a distinctive local restaurant to appeal to the growing nighttime crowd at the Grace and Reva apartments in National Landing.

Dean Mosones, co-owner of both Bar Chinois locations, expressed enthusiasm about returning to an area reminiscent of his early days in Mount Vernon Square, where business and residential developments converged to create vibrancy in the community.

As of now, the new spot appears to be catering effectively to that crowd, evidenced by a packed house on a Friday night, with all 80 inside seats, including 15 at the bustling bar, and an additional 40 outdoor patio seats filled to capacity.

The ambiance is lively and youthful, characterized by red pendant lights, cane-backed bistro chairs, and an exposed ductwork aesthetic, all set against a striking teal-and-black accent wall.

However, the atmosphere is also quite loud, reaching a noise level of 84 decibels, making it challenging for guests to engage in conversation amidst the energetic backdrop of music and chatter.

For those seeking a quieter dining experience, a visit on a Sunday afternoon provides a more tranquil atmosphere, with a noise level at a more manageable 72 decibels.

During this visit, Limvatana’s and Ruangsangwatana’s cuisine shines, particularly with their interpretation of the classic Crab Rangoon, which is crisp, creamy, and generously filled with both surimi and real crab meat, enhanced by scallions and lemon zest.

The Hoisin pork ribs are another highlight, known for their fall-off-the-bone tenderness, covered in a gooey sauce that calls for finger-licking indulgence.

Additionally, perfectly fried shrimp bao, coated in a delicate tempura-like batter, offer a delightful kick of heat through sriracha aioli and chili oil, while the spring rolls filled with pulled duck confit stand out as far superior choices compared to the frequently unsatisfying egg rolls found at typical Chinese restaurants.

However, not every dish hits the mark.

The ha gow, or steamed shrimp dumplings, leave much to be desired, coming across as rather forgettable.

Likewise, the gyoza de boeuf, which blends ground beef, caramelized onions, and Gruyere cheese to echo the flavors of French onion soup, does not quite deliver—falling short of expectations.

On the other hand, a fan-favorite is the plain yet exquisite garlic noodles: a delicious mixture of ramen noodles, shiitake mushrooms, and spinach, all luxuriously coated in garlic butter and a unique blend of soy, oyster, and fish sauces, with a topping of Parmesan that elevates the dish.

Additional menu offerings include various rice bowls, such as those topped with char siu chicken or five-spice pork belly, with a highlight being the crispy-skinned salmon served in a honey miso glaze, perfectly cooked to showcase the chef’s skill.

For dessert, the options are somewhat limited, featuring matcha creme brulee, which garners mixed feelings among diners, along with a delectable chocolate cheesecake and profiteroles filled with ice cream that receive praise.

Overall, Bar Chinois is proving itself to be a dynamic addition to the Arlington dining scene.

Though the ambiance might not cater to everyone’s taste on bustling nights, there’s ample reason to return, especially on quieter afternoons for a chance to indulge in delicious dumplings and conversation.

With its creative menu and vibrant spirit, Bar Chinois invites both new and returning guests to discover its culinary offerings.

Bar Chinois can be found at 244 19th Court S. #105, Arlington, and is open Monday through Saturday from 4 to 11 p.m., and Sunday from 4 to 10 p.m.

Parking options are limited on the street, but there is a parking garage available on 18th Street between Bell Street and Crystal Drive.

Prices for dumplings range from $10 to $12, with small plates priced from $11 to $16, entrees ranging from $14 to $23, and desserts available for $7 to $9.

The drink menu includes a variety of craft cocktails priced from $14 to $21, showcasing options like the Lucky Snake and Mousse a la Peche, along with an assortment of wines available by the glass and bottle, as well as a selection of bottled beers.

image source from:arlingtonmagazine

Abigail Harper