SITKAGI BLUFFS — A recent expedition at the edge of Malaspina Glacier revealed unexpected findings about the glacier’s future. While paddling in Sitkagi Lagoon, a glacial lake with striking milky blue waters, the presence of salt on fingertips served as evidence of the encroaching Gulf of Alaska. This connection has significant implications for the glacier, as it faces transformations that may reshape its landscape forever.
The tranquil Sitkagi Lagoon, bordered by towering ice cliffs, is one of over 200 lakes proliferating across the surface of the Malaspina Glacier. Scientists have documented the dramatic increase in these bodies of water, which has soared from five in 1972 to more than 200 by 2020. The lagoon, now recognized by scientists as ice-walled and fed by the Pacific Ocean, may herald a catastrophic retreat for the glacier’s tidewater.
The glacier, known in Tlingit as Sít’ Tlein, meaning ‘big ice,’ was first named by U.S. Army explorer William Dall in 1874. Malaspina Glacier, spanning approximately Rhode Island-sized, is Alaska’s largest glacier, characterized by vast icefields that feed it through a notched pass in the St. Elias Mountains.
Research by Anna Thompson and Mike Loso from Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve has documented concerning changes in the glacier’s surface. The authors of the 2024 report noted that rising lake numbers indicate rapidly changing climatic conditions and glacier instability. The looming question is whether Malaspina can persist amid saltwater intrusions and rising temperatures.
Martin Truffer, a glaciologist from the University of Alaska Fairbanks, provided alarming insights about the glacier’s rate of decline. He stated that it is currently losing between 20 to 30 feet in surface elevation each year. The glacier’s steeply carved basin, combined with its low elevation—most ice remains under 3,500 feet—makes it particularly susceptible to melting by warmer ocean water.
Researchers have utilized radar technology to identify glacier ice situated as deep as 1,000 feet below sea level, exacerbating the situation. Truffer warned that once a glacier begins to retreat, the process often accelerates. Glacier surges, which involve sudden, rapid forward movements, pose additional risks to the glacier’s integrity. Malaspina has experienced several surges in the past few decades, further complicating its already precarious stability.
The physical barriers that have historically protected the glacier from warm saltwater are eroding, leading to breaches that allow for seawater penetration into Sitkagi Lagoon and other basins. This phenomenon intensifies the rate of ice melting, as warmer saltwater accelerates the process compared to air temperatures. Ocean waters in the Gulf of Alaska measure between 44 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit—a concerning temperature for ice sustainability.
The implications of these changes are significant and troubling. As Victor Devaux-Chupin, a graduate student studying under Truffer, explained, the glacier is set for a transformation that will render it unrecognizable in less than a century. The vast mass covering Malaspina Glacier is at risk, and the process of decline is unlikely to be rapid. Nonetheless, the eventual outcome remains clear: the glacier’s slow demise will contribute to the ever-evolving landscapes of Alaska.
By comparing current and historical data, scientists aim to understand better the long-term consequences of climate change on glaciers like Malaspina. As the world observes these invaluable ice formations, the fate of Sitkagi Lagoon is a testament to the broader impacts of a warming climate—and the precariousness of ice in a changing environment. With each year, the effects of these climatic shifts become more pronounced, indicating a future where glaciers may no longer dominate the Alaskan landscape.
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