On a sunny spring morning, a stroll through the Stonestown Farmers Market reveals a delightful stall adorned with chocolate delights.
Among the enticing offerings, a standout feature is the remarkable pair of intricately crafted chocolate bunnies.
The male bunny, complete with a waistcoat and walking stick, stands in contrast to the female bunny, who swishes her skirt and elegantly carries a parasol.
“They’re in their Easter Sunday best,” says David Upchurch, the talented chocolatier behind this enchanting creation.
Originally an architect, Upchurch transitioned from designing buildings to crafting chocolate sweets after discovering his passion for pastry during a trip to Paris.
This career shift blossomed further when he started training at City College of San Francisco and the San Francisco Baking Institute after the recession hit in 2009.
Following a five-year stint at Recchiuti Confections, a renowned craft chocolate producer known for its innovative flavors, Upchurch launched his own tiny chocolate business during the COVID-19 lockdown in 2020.
Currently operating from a small production kitchen in SoMa, he is applying for a cottage license to create his chocolates from his home in Noe Valley.
The male bunny mold, sourced from an antique dealer on eBay, has a rich history.
Upchurch discovered it while searching for vintage chocolate molds online, specifically from a dealer based in Brussels who specialized in early 20th-century designs.
Among his dozen purchases was the male rabbit mold, crafted by Anton Reiche in Dresden, Germany, around 1920.
“It was love at first sight,” Upchurch recalls, noting the mold’s unique liveliness compared to typically symmetrical designs.
“His pose reminds me of a Neoclassical figure,” Upchurch adds, captivated by the detail and character of the piece.
The female bunny mold, discovered later at Omnivore Books, completed this enchanting pair.
In conversation with Celia Sack, the owner of the cookbook store, Upchurch found the matching female bunny mold from the same maker and era.
“It was total kismet,” he exclaims, thrilled to create a cohesive duo that represents a bygone era.
Naming the bunnies Bert and Mary, after the beloved characters from Mary Poppins, Upchurch enthuses that their attire is reminiscent of the Edwardian style associated with the story’s setting, despite the molds being created slightly later.
“The lady bunny reminds me of Mary Poppins with her flowing skirt, parasol, and boots,” he reflects.
Working with antique molds presents challenges, especially when crafting chocolate.
Upchurch tempers the chocolate meticulously, brushing each mold by hand to ensure every intricate detail is covered.
After pouring a light layer of chocolate into the mold, he clamps the halves shut and applies additional layers before letting them set for hours.
The molds are not always perfectly aligned, often leading to a bit of mess in the production process.
To speed things up, he has also invested in new plastic molds that replicate the same designs, though he laments they lack the depth of detail offered by their antique counterparts.
Each Easter season, Upchurch crafts only a limited number of these exquisite bunnies, making them a sought-after treat.
He sells his creations at the Stonestown Farmers Market on Sundays and the Marin Farmers Market on Thursdays, in addition to select local shops like Chocolate Covered and Collage Gallery.
Priced at $29 each, these chocolate bunnies stand about seven inches tall and weigh between five to seven ounces, showcasing the quality and care that goes into each piece.
While the bunnies are guaranteed to sell out quickly, Upchurch offers a variety of other Easter-themed treats such as smash eggs, caramel eggs, and peanut butter bunny bars.
In the vibrant Bay Area, numerous talented confectioners provide delightful options for filling Easter baskets.
From Dandelion’s marshmallow eggs to Recchiuti’s ganache eggs and Christopher Elbow’s whimsical spaceship bunnies, the selection is abundant.
Yet, there is something uniquely charming about owning an early 20th-century chocolate bunny, especially in the picturesque backdrop of pastel-colored Edwardian homes in San Francisco.
“Oh absolutely,” Upchurch agrees, affirming that these bunnies fit perfectly into the quintessential San Francisco atmosphere.
For those interested in experiencing Upchurch’s artful chocolates, David Upchurch Chocolatier can be found at the Stonestown Farmers Market in San Francisco on Sundays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and at the Marin Farmers Market in San Rafael on Thursdays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.
A limited number of exquisite chocolate bunnies will be available for purchase until sold out.
image source from：https://www.kqed.org/arts/13974630/easter-chocolate-bunnies-san-francisco-edwardian-david-upchurch
