Matcha tea is currently experiencing a significant surge in popularity in the United States, leading to a shortage due to the inability of specialized stone grinders to keep up with global demand. This increased popularity has resulted in a spike in prices, further fueling interest in this ancient beverage.
Among the prominent players in this market is Masanori Den Shirakata, the third-generation owner of Den’s Tea based in Torrance, California. For Den, the fascination with matcha goes back over a century, long before it turned into the trendy beverage it is today.
During a matcha tasting, or ‘cupping,’ held at a refrigerated warehouse near Torrance’s Monkish and Smog City breweries, Den guides visitors through various grades of matcha, from the “Organic Premium Restaurant” matcha to the luxurious “Organic Ceremonial” grade, priced at $126 per half-pound on their website. Notably, premium matcha offers a more buttery flavor and vibrant green color, distinguishing it from cheaper culinary grade matcha often used for desserts or sweetened drinks.
The Shirakata family’s tea journey commenced over 102 years ago. Originally established as a local tea business, it has transformed into a global matcha enterprise, blending time-honored Japanese tea culture with the evolving American market. Den Shirakata stepped into the role of president at a young age, taking the helm following the unexpected passing of his father.
Despite not being the traditional first-born heir, Den embraced the family legacy with enthusiasm and foresight. His journey into the tea industry took a decisive turn in the late 1990s when he identified a burgeoning opportunity in the U.S. market. Den first arrived in the U.S. in 1987 to study English and marketing, but his perspective shifted dramatically when he encountered the growing popularity of green tea.
In 1999, he witnessed a notable rise in interest during a U.S. Tea Association event, which he attributed to the increasing number of Japanese restaurants opening across the country. This realization prompted him to establish Den’s Tea in Torrance in 2000, focusing on the South Bay community amidst the burgeoning matcha buzz.
The current matcha market represents both opportunities and challenges for Den’s Tea. With prices increasing by approximately 20% over the past year alone, largely due to escalating demand from big retailers and local cafes, the competition for premium matcha has intensified. Den notes that matcha exports to the U.S. have surged by 70% recently, with matcha dominating green tea shipments.
Throughout the tasting session, Den demonstrated his expertise, explaining how he can discern matcha quality simply by how it feels in his fingers, with premium matcha being at least ten times finer than all-purpose flour.
He emphasizes the importance of freshness in tea storage, opting for refrigerated storage between zero to five degrees Celsius to preserve flavor and maintain quality. “We keep prices as fair as we can and quality high using traditional Japanese techniques,” he adds.
Den is surprised by the rapid adoption of matcha in the U.S., remarking, “I think the U.S. consumes more matcha than Japan now.” The high demand has caused prices to rise, with some farmers in Shizuoka shifting from sencha production to matcha cultivation as they respond to market trends.
While Den acknowledges the challenges of maintaining quality alongside growth, he believes there is still untapped potential in inland areas, where matcha is still gaining traction. “Inland, matcha’s still new—it’s got potential,” he asserts, underscoring his commitment to providing fresh tea directly from Japan and emphasizing craftsmanship.
Recognizing the distinct advantages of Japanese tea, Den elaborates on the unique processing methods that retain the health benefits of the tea, highlighting that steaming and rolling techniques extract a significant portion of the tea’s essence.
His matcha has become a sought-after choice for local retailers, including notable places like Bristol Farms and Gusto Bread, while also supplying various local cafe chains that he cannot disclose due to confidentiality agreements.
Den reflects on how the landscape of tea consumption has shifted, noting that customers today actively inquire about tea gardens and specific cultivars, showcasing a newfound interest in the product.
Managing the family business has been both rewarding and challenging for Den. In the past few years, he entrusted Japan operations to his cousin, allowing him to focus his efforts on expanding the U.S. market. While his son may continue the family legacy, Den approaches the prospect casually, understanding the benefits and drawbacks of family business dynamics.
The transformation in the matcha market has been particularly fruitful for Den’s Tea. Initially a niche product, matcha now represents nearly 80% of Japanese tea exports to the United States, with a staggering 30% year-over-year growth.
As Den continues to navigate the challenges and opportunities presented by this rapidly growing market, he maintains a positive outlook on matcha’s trajectory. “Even if they don’t get it, they’re spreading the word,” he says of new influencers and enthusiasts promoting matcha.
In conclusion, as Den’s Tea leads the charge in the flourishing matcha market, the blend of tradition and innovation, coupled with Den’s dedication to quality, appears to position the business for continued success in an exciting new era for matcha tea in the United States.
image source from：https://lataco.com/matcha-legend-los-angeles-torrance
