Noisette, a rising culinary gem in Denver’s French restaurant landscape, has announced its closure after three years of operation.
Owners Tim and Lilian Lu revealed that the decision stems from ongoing economic challenges impacting the restaurant industry.
The final dinner service is scheduled for Saturday, June 14, marking the end of an era for this charming alternative in the competitive LoHi dining scene.
Noisette offered a serene dining environment, accentuated by its soothing decor in shades of sage and dusty rose, alongside some of the most comfortable seating in the city.
The Lus characterized their menu as ‘cuisine bourgeoise,’ reflecting a dedication to elevating mid-class home cooking to fine dining standards.
In addition to its dinner service, Noisette featured a bakery counter serving delectable baguettes, pastries, and fresh sandwiches during breakfast and lunch hours, transforming into a cozy wine bar in the evenings.
While Noisette’s closure raises questions about the overall health of the Denver restaurant industry, the Lus explained that various factors contributed to their decision.
“We faced significant cost increases from multiple sources, and as a new business trying to establish ourselves, it became overwhelming,” Lilian stated.
Her husband, Tim, echoed these sentiments, citing a particularly steep rise in property taxes and noting that their specific brand of French cuisine might not resonate universally with the local dining community.
Having debuted in 2022 among a wave of new French restaurant openings, Noisette was part of a trend that included eateries like Brasserie Brixton, La Forêt, Chez Maggy, Le French, and Jacques, which also recently closed its doors.
Many have observed that the allure of French dining in Denver has fluctuated over the years.
For some diners, traditional French dishes have transformed from regular menu items to occasional treats, making it a challenge for restaurant operators to maintain a consistent flow of customers.
Frank Bonanno, an experienced restaurateur behind the acclaimed Mizuna, shared insights about the dynamic relationship Denver has with French dining.
Mizuna, which opened its doors in 2001, survived due to its ability to blend French cooking styles with a diverse array of menu options.
Bonanno explained, “My approach has always been to avoid rigidity in the cuisine; I focus on creating new dishes without being confined solely to French traditions.”
In contrast, French 75, which Bonanno operated downtown until last year, strictly pursued the classic French bistro model.
Despite initial excitement, the business was ultimately unable to sustain itself due to fluctuating patronage and inadequate space for large gatherings.
Bistro Vendôme, another long-standing establishment, has successfully navigated the restaurant scene for 20 years.
Recently relocating from the tourist-heavy Larimer Square to the quieter Park Hill neighborhood, it continues to thrive by focusing on great brunch offerings and a steadfast commitment to classic French dishes.
While some French restaurants have found stable footing, others have not been as fortunate.
Long-gone favorites like Le Central, which graced Denver’s dining scene for over 30 years, and Crêpes ‘n Crêpes, a beloved Cherry Creek fixture until last year, are often remembered with nostalgia.
Additionally, restaurants like Brasserie Rouge, Aubergine, and Z Cuisine, though celebrated during their time, contributed to a rich but transient culinary history in Denver.
The fluctuating popularity and eventual closures of many French eateries raise questions about the future of such cuisine in Denver.
As we reflect on the gastronomic landscape, one can’t help but wonder which fresh talents might emerge to reignite the passion for French cuisine in the city.
With changes looming, it seems we will have to raise a glass in memory of Noisette and the culinary adventures it brought to Denver diners.
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