Grand Central Market, a historic food hall in downtown Los Angeles, is currently experiencing a significant drop in foot traffic, as many local businesses face a downturn in patrons due to recent Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) raids and ongoing anti-ICE protests in the area.
Once vibrant and bustling, the market, which has served as a staple of culinary variety since its opening in 1917, has seen empty tables where before there were lines of customers eagerly waiting to sample diverse cuisines from its oldest vendors—offering Mexican, Chinese, and Salvadoran dishes.
Martha Luna, who has served at the China Cafe, one of the market’s oldest eateries, for more than 40 years, noted a drastic change in customer turnout.
“The last few days, it’s been crazy. Everybody’s afraid, you know?” she remarked while serving a sparse crowd beneath the iconic red neon signage of her workplace.
Luna recounted how regulars, who usually fill her counter daily, are now notably absent, with only one to three visitors gracing her establishment each day.
“Even if they go to the market or eat, they’re so afraid, even my boss,” she added.
Traditionally packed with downtown office workers during lunch hours and teeming with tourists in the evenings, the market’s atmosphere has drastically shifted.
Amy Recinos from Villa’s Tacos, acclaimed for its charred meats and crispy blue corn tortillas, echoed these sentiments, stating that customers are noticeably absent over the last week.
“We are typically one of the vendors that stays very, very busy throughout the entire week and day,” Recinos said, lamenting that they are now closing early due to the lack of business.
She shared that many of her regulars have opted to work from home to avoid the protests and unrest occurring nearby.
On a recent Sunday, her stand found itself catering mainly to protestors rather than the usual diverse clientele, as she expressed her solidarity with the immigrant community.
“To all of my Hispanic immigrants: I’m here for you, we see you,” Recinos stated, looking forward to a time when peace returns to their community.
Bella Aguirre, an aspiring costume designer, visited the market amidst warnings from her father about potential dangers associated with the protests.
Despite these concerns, Aguirre found the environment to be peaceful during her visit, stating her intentions to participate in upcoming protests, believing in the right to voice frustrations and demands.
“I think it’s going to be a bigger outpouring of people. I think I feel safe going,” she remarked, acknowledging the quieter than usual atmosphere compared to her previous visits.
At the For the Win smashburger stand, a hastily written sign advised customers of its early closure, reflecting the pervasive impact of the ongoing situation.
Sonya Mendoza, working nearby, noted the stark absence of foot traffic. Typically bustling from noon to 3 p.m., the market on a recent Thursday felt deserted, with only a handful of patrons present.
“I haven’t seen any street vendors in the past three days, which is mind-boggling to me,” said Mendoza, who usually experiences a vibrant atmosphere in the area.
In conversations with others at the market, employees have noted a significant drop in customer presence throughout the week, with Froi Cruz from Lucky Bird detailing the drastic decrease in foot traffic to their fried chicken stall.
“Due to the curfew and the slowing of business, we’ve been closing around 5 p.m., two hours earlier than usual on weekdays,” Cruz explained, indicating a concerning trend for their operations.
Most of their clientele consists of office workers who now seem to be steering clear of the area altogether.
Jose Marroquin at Shiku expressed his agreement with Cruz, stating simply, “It’s very slow. No people, nothing.”
The impact of these protests has reverberated throughout the market, affecting even those vendors like DTLA Cheese Superette, who rely heavily on catering and lunch orders from nearby offices.
Co-owner Lydia Clarke described the abrupt cancelation of all catering orders this week and shared her concerns about how they will survive the current conditions.
With a heavy heart, she reflected on how the situation feels personal, especially for those involved with the food community.
“We feed a lot of people that have been walking the pavement, and it’s great to hear the story and feel supported in that way: to serve a nourishing meal of support for our community and the causes,” she said, visibly emotional about the circumstances.
As business owners in Grand Central Market navigate the uncertainties brought on by ICE raids and protests, the community of vendors and patrons alike are left grappling with the nuances of this tumultuous time.
Many are hopeful that the supportive atmosphere created during these protests would eventually lead to a more peaceful interaction with their surroundings, encouraging a return to the market appearing as it once did—a thriving melting pot of culture, cuisine, and community drawn together.
In the meantime, the residents, workers, and business owners continue to hope for a calming resolution and the restoration of normalcy in their beloved market.
image source from：https://www.latimes.com/food/story/2025-06-13/grand-central-market-vendors-customers-sound-off-on-a-week-of-anti-ice-protests-lost-business
