Summer in Chicago wouldn’t be the same without its renowned Lakefront Trail, a scenic 18-mile path that runs alongside the stunning shores of Lake Michigan, offering breathtaking views of both the water and the city’s skyline, parks, and lagoons.
This cherished urban gem provides endless leisure opportunities and remarkable landmarks. Continuing from last year’s exploration of the southern portion of the trail, we now delve into the North Side, tracing the route as it approaches its conclusion at Ardmore Avenue.
The Chess Pavilion, designed by architect Maurice Webster in 1957, features a floating roof supported by oversized king and queen chess pieces, offering more than a dozen built-in chess tables.
Funded by Laurens Hammond, the founder of the Hammond Organ Company and a frequent chess player at the pavilion, the project cost $90,000 at the time (approximately $1 million today).
Next along the trail is the whimsical Boat House, characterized by its vibrant red chimneys, porthole windows, and a nautical blue-and-white color scheme.
Originally built in 1940 as part of a Works Progress Administration initiative to enhance the North Avenue beach, this structure was designed by Emanuel Buchsbaum.
By the 1990s, the building had fallen into disrepair, leading to its demolition and replacement by a new, larger boat house that continued this nautical theme, now designed by Wheeler Kearns Architects.
Just a short walk north lies the Passerelle, a pedestrian footbridge that also dates back to the WPA project of 1940.
Though it may appear ordinary today, the steel arch bridge, spanning 187 feet, was once a standout feature, even being showcased in a 1940s exhibition at New York’s Museum of Modern Art under the title ‘Built in the USA.’
Slightly off the trail but full of history is the Theater on the Lake, originally designed in 1920 to serve as a medical facility known as the Chicago Daily News Fund Sanitarium for Sick Babies.
The Prairie Style building, created by architect Dwight Perkins, features unique tapering pillars, expansive roof overhangs supported by curving beams, and numerous windowed facades.
On the south side of the theater stands the Charitas sculpture, crafted by Ida McClelland Stout.
This piece, depicting a robed woman holding one child on her shoulder and another in her arms, was an original accessory to the sanitarium.
After being moved during park renovations, Charitas found its way back to the theater’s vicinity in 2016, becoming a notable installation within the space.
Continuing north near the Diversey Harbor Bridge, we come across Chevron, a striking blue sculpture designed by John Henry.
Known for his monumental welded steel works, Henry achieved national prominence before his passing in 2022.
Standing at over 40 feet tall, Chevron was first installed on Armitage Avenue in Lincoln Park in 2011 but was relocated to its current lakeside position in 2015 after initial complaints about its size.
Further along the trail are two significant sculptures, A Signal of Peace and The Alarm, which together constitute a poignant monument acknowledging the historical displacement and suffering of Native Americans.
A Signal of Peace, created in 1890 by Cyrus Dallin, depicts a Sioux man on horseback, once displayed at the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago.
Judge Lambert Tree, who acquired it for Lincoln Park in 1894, intended the sculpture as a reminder of the injustices faced by Native peoples and emphasized their peaceful heritage through his correspondence with park officials.
Not far from this piece is The Alarm, completed by John J. Boyle in 1884.
Originally titled The Indian Family, the sculpture portrays a Native family, showcasing Boyle’s commitment to accurately representing the Ottawa people based on his studies.
Both sculptures reflect the support of their patrons, with figures like Martin Ryerson advocating for a respectful portrayal of Native cultures.
AIDS Garden Chicago introduces a more contemporary narrative to the lakefront, featuring a significant 2.5-acre tribute honoring victims of the HIV/AIDS epidemic and recognizing those currently living with the virus.
Opened just three years ago, the garden is meaningful to many in Chicago’s LGBTQ+ community, located next to the historical Belmont Rocks, a gathering space for queer individuals from the 1960s through the 1990s.
Haring’s vibrant green character stands as a symbol of remembrance and solidarity in the evolving landscape of the lakefront.
One notable attraction on the trail is the Kwa-Ma-Rolas pole, which has a rich history connected to Native American artistry.
Originally carved in 1927 and later replaced due to deterioration, a replica crafted by Tony Hunt of the Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw tribe was commissioned by Kraft Foods in 1986.
The striking totem, adorned with a thunderbird and other mythical creatures, serves as a colorful landmark and a testament to the ongoing appreciation of Indigenous culture in public art.
Waveland Clock Tower is another fascinating structure, reminiscent of a bygone era in England with its brick and stone construction.
Built in 1931 during a period of expansion on lakefill, the tower features an impressive design by architect Edwin Hill Clark.
Despite a connection to its intended model in Stockbridge, Massachusetts, the clock tower has a unique charm that stands out against the backdrop of Lincoln Park.
As we approach the end of the trail, we find ourselves near the iconic Edgewater Beach Apartments, a historic pink building constructed in 1928.
This building is the last remnant of a trio of hotels and apartments that once hugged the shoreline, with the lake now significantly farther away than its original location.
The Saddle and Cycle Club, established in 1899, has also experienced changes due to the expansion of lakefront parkland.
While it initially enjoyed over 500 feet of lakefront, the development of the park on lakefill displaced the club from direct access to the water.
Nonetheless, the club continues to operate, navigating its unique relationship with the public park space.
Finally, the Lakefront Trail officially concludes at Ardmore Avenue, roughly seven and a half miles from the Navy Pier Flyover.
For those willing to wander a short distance further north, the site offers a glimpse of a building that gained television fame in the 1970s.
The Bob Newhart Show portrayed its lead characters as residents of a high-rise at 5901 N. Sheridan Road, bringing a touch of nostalgia for travelers along the trail.
This exploration of Chicago’s Lakefront Trail, particularly the North Side, highlights the blend of historical significance, artistic expression, and community narratives that define this vibrant urban experience.
image source from:https://www.wbez.org/architecture/2025/06/16/whats-that-building-architectural-tour-of-the-lakefront-trail-north-side