Berlu, the restaurant that has transformed from a Vietnamese tasting menu spot to a bakery and then to a soup shop before becoming a wine bar and returning to bakery roots, is making headlines once again. The beloved bánh bò nướng, a tapioca flour cake, is set to return to Portland later this month.
Food critic Karen Brooks praised the cake in her 2022 review, describing it as an “exquisitely chewy, honeycomb-textured bakery treat.” The bánh bò nướng, known for its vibrant Brat-green color thanks to pandan, has captivated many fans, some of whom even wore socks adorned with the BBN logo.
The dish was showcased in various forms—grilled and served with coconut cream and caviar in the restaurant’s tasting menu, then disappearing following the closures of both the restaurant and bakery at the end of 2023 and late 2024, respectively. However, all of this is about to change with the reopening of the bakery by James Beard Award–winning chef Vince Nguyen in a new location just around the corner from the original establishment.
At the new venue, Nguyen will delve deeper into the bánh bò nướng offerings, providing various innovative versions including vegan options, coffee and pandan flavors, and even an avocado toast-inspired variation topped with coconut oil, avocado, sprouts, and herbs.
Nguyen’s journey with the bánh bò nướng has been unexpected. Initially, as he began his culinary career through pop-ups under the name Jolie Laide, he was an ambitious chef influenced by his time at world-class kitchens, including the renowned Noma and the legendary Portland fine-dining institution, Castagna. His early work was characterized by unusual and visually striking presentations, with soups served in test tubes and seafood elegantly showcased in molds.
When Nguyen established Berlu in 2019, he was firmly entrenched in this modernist culinary space. However, the onset of the pandemic forced him to adapt his approach. He transitioned to casual noodle bowls and popular weekend bakery pop-ups, effectively pivoting the restaurant’s focus. The bakery flourished during this period, and when dining resumed, many of the original flavors remained present in the menu. Nguyen’s work earned him notable recognition, culminating in a James Beard Award in 2023 for Best Chef in the Northwest and Pacific category.
Although he closed the tasting menu restaurant at the end of 2023, Nguyen continued to focus on the bakery, eventually deciding to relocate and dedicate more resources to this project. He expressed his belief in the great potential of the bakery, stating, “The fulfillment I got from Berlu was being able to express my creativity, my care, my love.”
When the new bakery opens on June 29, 2024, customers can expect a variety of familiar treats, beyond the bánh bò nướng. The pastry case will feature fresh fruit tarts, strawberry roll cakes, roasted coconut-pandan layer cakes, and coconut egg custard tarts. Additionally, the opening menu will showcase decadent items such as caramelized rhubarb bánh khoai mì nướng, a vegan cassava and mung bean cake, and a special pandan and tamarind jelly cake known as bánh da lợn.
Exciting changes are also in store, with savory options set to debut in early July. Nguyen plans to offer a unique take on xôi khúc, typically a glutinous rice dumpling filled with mung bean, enhanced by the addition of a runny yolk, braised bacon, and cheese, finished in a panini press for added texture. The bánh tiêu, a Vietnamese doughnut, will be rolled in everything bagel spice for a modern twist. As winter approaches, Nguyen plans to reintroduce his soups, including a pork and shrimp meatball variant, alongside vegan and pescetarian options.
Adding to the excitement is the revamped coffee program that will complement the bakery offerings. Patrons can look forward to espresso alongside traditional cà phê sữa đá and Vietnamese egg coffee, which Nguyen cherishes as a dessert-like treat. “I had it six times in Vietnam, and every place required you to have it dine-in,” he reminisces, emphasizing the importance of honoring this traditional drink.
For the first time in Berlu’s history, dairy will be incorporated into coffee drinks and some menu items, although the bakery will maintain its commitment to being entirely gluten-free.
The aesthetic of the new Berlu departs from the fine-dining format of the original restaurant, favoring a more inviting blend of white walls and blonde wood, accented with bright orange benches and window seating. Additionally, the bakery will showcase Vietnamese pastry-themed artwork created by passionate customers and friends, contributing to a vibrant atmosphere.
Nguyen reflected on this connection, stating, “Being open over the years, we came to be friends with a lot of really creative people in the art world. It’s nice to have a sense of their creativity in the pastry space.”
Berlu Bakery is set to open its doors on June 29, 2024, at 661 SE Belmont St, promising an immersive experience in Vietnamese pastry culture and a celebration of culinary creativity.
image source from：pdxmonthly
