The American road trip is often seen as a path to self-discovery under vast open skies. Yet, a journey north from Chicago reveals the subtle artistic drama of the Midwest, with its sweeping prairies, pristine glacial lakes, and a treasure trove of Frank Lloyd Wright’s architectural wonders.
While contemporary art may not dominate the Midwest’s landscape, the region’s creative history is deeply entrenched in agriculture, domestic craftsmanship, and self-taught ingenuity. From artist-built environments to remarkable architectural pieces, these elements reflect the Midwest’s tradition of using abundant space to express creativity.
This summer, WBEZ invites you on an art road trip that celebrates this legacy, journeying from Racine to Milwaukee to Sheboygan. This route is a unique pilgrimage where art permeates supper clubs and backyards, alongside the more traditional spaces of galleries and museums. What awaits is an eye-opening adventure that is not only accessible and budget-friendly but also enriching.
**Racine: The Heart of Craft**
Although Racine might not be the first destination that springs to mind when one thinks of art, it is a crucial starting point for lovers of contemporary craft. The Racine Art Museum (RAM) boasts the largest collection of contemporary craft in the United States, featuring bold ceramics, fibers, wood, and glass creations showcased in a minimalist building overlooking the lake.
“There’s this incredible legacy of Objects: USA here,” says Shoshana Resnikoff, the Demmer Curator of 20th and 21st Century Design at the Milwaukee Art Museum. This reference highlights the impact of a seminal touring exhibition that circulated from 1969 to 1972, largely sponsored by SC Johnson, who collected and donated numerous pieces to Racine’s museum.
The museum is home to notable works by artists like Toshiko Takaezu, Mara Superior, and Viola Frey, each of whom has pushed the boundaries of their respective mediums. Frey’s monumental clay figures are especially distinguished, conveying a profound emotional depth.
Just south of downtown, one can find the SC Johnson Administration Building, a testament to Frank Lloyd Wright’s innovative design, completed in 1936. Open to public tours on Sundays, this building offers a glimpse into Wright’s approach to non-domestic architecture, which is described by Resnikoff as evoking a “sense of being in a forest” married to utility.
For those visiting, the Racine Art Museum is located at 441 Main St., Racine, Wisconsin and operates Wednesday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., with an admission fee of $10 for adults while children under 12 can enter for free.
Tours of the SC Johnson Administration Building are available from Wednesday to Sunday during the summer, and admission is free.
**Milwaukee: A Blend of Architecture, Folk Art, and Frozen Custard**
As you continue north for approximately 40 minutes, Milwaukee’s vibrant lakefront awaits, fueled by its rich cultural scene. The Milwaukee Art Museum, with its iconic Santiago Calatrava-designed brise soleil, is a must-see, but there are hidden gems within its walls that offer deeper insights into the city’s artistic fabric.
“The museum is like a rabbit’s warren,” states Resnikoff. “But if you look down, the floors tell you where you are,” marking the transitions between the Calatrava addition, the Saarinen wing, and the 1970s Kahler expansion.
A lesser-known highlight is the folk art mezzanine, which features a delightful collection of hand-carved figures, whirligigs, and self-taught masterworks that resonate with local history. “It’s beloved by Milwaukee school kids,” observes Resnikoff, encapsulating the endearing essence of the collection that feels uniquely Milwaukeean despite being nationally representative.
Art enthusiasts will also want to explore the newly opened exhibit, “Erin Shirreff: Permanent Drafts,” showcasing the works of this Montreal-based artist for the first time in a decade. The exhibition includes over 40 recent sculptures, photographs, videos, and site-specific installations that demonstrate Shirreff’s unique manipulation of diverse materials and perspectives.
After indulging in the art, Milwaukee offers culinary delights as well. Renowned for their butter burgers and delectable frozen custard, both Kopp’s and Leon’s are local favorites. Alternatively, the South Shore Terrace beer garden in Bay View, located in a former bathhouse, serves bratwurst and local brews in a picturesque setting with sweeping views of the skyline.
In Fox Point, the Mary Nohl House stands out as a remarkable example of an artist-built environment. Often referred to as the “witch’s house” by locals, this lakeside cottage reflects Nohl’s vision of transforming her home and yard into a comprehensive work of art through mosaics, sculptures, and personal iconography.
“She wanted the world around her to be different, so she made it so,” Resnikoff noted. “Every surface is intentional. Every object tells you something about how she saw the world. The house itself is an artwork.” While visits are limited, even a drive-by view portrays its remarkable character.
Visitors can find the Milwaukee Art Museum at 700 N. Art Museum Dr., Milwaukee, Wisconsin. It operates from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, with extended hours on Thursday until 8 p.m. Admission costs $27 for adults, and children 12 and under enter for free.
**Sheboygan: Where Everyday Life Becomes Art**
As the final destination on this journey, Sheboygan presents a vibrant blend of Midwestern modesty intertwined with an abundance of art. Anchored by the John Michael Kohler Arts Center and the expansive 160-acre Art Preserve, Sheboygan offers a multi-layered look at American visual culture that is part gallery and part living archive.
This summer, the Arts Center features “The Imaginative Landscape,” a major exhibition by Hmong American photographer Pao Houa Her. Her work poignantly records the experiences of refugee resettlement, employing images that merge personal memory and myth. The exhibition spans not only the Kohler museum but also spreads throughout Sheboygan, with installations in various locales including a karaoke bar and the county courthouse.
“It’s personal and universal at the same time,” says Jodi Throckmorton, chief curator of the Arts Center. “It’s work that brings awareness to a group of people that we need to have more awareness of. It speaks to this moment.” Attendees can navigate the seven neighborhood sites marked on a map provided by the Kohler Museum.
The Art Preserve, which opened in 2021, showcases over 30 artist-built environments, embodying the distinctive collection the center has accumulated over nearly four decades and establishing the venue as a key player in the realm of outsider art.
Throckmorton highlights Emery Blagdon’s Healing Machine, a remarkable installation aimed at harnessing natural energies for healing, as one of her favorites. “There’s something energetic happening in that space,” she mentioned. “Every time I walk through, I feel it.” The preserve also houses the reconstructed home of Imagist Ray Yoshida, filled with flea market treasures and outsider art, offering insight into one of Chicago’s pivotal visual thinkers.
For those traveling on a Thursday, visitors can enjoy the Kohler Center’s free weekly concerts on the City Green, which generally draw a crowd of three to five thousand — a testament to the local enthusiasm.
To conclude your artistic adventure, consider unwinding at Majerle’s Black River Grill, a traditional Wisconsin supper club nestled in nearby Black River. The establishment serves classic dishes like roasted chicken and brandy Old Fashioneds in a cozy wood-paneled setting, creating an experience that pays homage to Wisconsin’s supper club tradition, a cultural staple dating back to mid-20th century dining.
Both the John Michael Kohler Arts Center and Art Preserve are open Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Thursday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., and on weekends from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission is free to both venues.
For an extended stay, consider returning to Milwaukee to rest at one of Frank Lloyd Wright’s few American System-Built Homes. Located on the historic Burnham Block, the restored Model B1 is not only open for public tours but also offers overnight accommodations, showcasing Wright’s vision for affordable and well-crafted housing.
This summer art road trip offers a chance to engage deeply with the creative spirit of the American Midwest, a region where art thrives in many forms and settings, inviting exploration beyond the usual tourist trails.
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