Molina’s Cantina, a beloved staple in Houston’s restaurant scene, boasts a rich history that has spanned more than 80 years. Since its inception in 1929, the establishment has been a gathering place for families, friends, and even notable figures, such as former President George H. W. Bush. The Bush family cherished the restaurant so much that they arranged for tamales to be hand-delivered to the White House in 1989.
Today, patrons like 83-year-old Burch Downman, who has dined at Molina’s since he was a child, contribute to the restaurant’s warm atmosphere. On any given day, he may be found savoring warm tortillas with beans and hot sauce while listening to an audiobook. Raul Molina Jr., now 96 years old and a former owner of the restaurant, fondly recalls Downman as a regular who has been part of the Molina’s family for decades.
The story of Molina’s began when Raul Molina Sr. moved from Laredo to Houston in search of a better life in 1929. Starting his journey as a dishwasher and busboy at the Old Monterrey restaurant, he eventually took over ownership in 1941. Alongside his wife, Mary, and his brother-in-law, Jose Sarabia, Molina Sr. worked tirelessly to create a family-run dining experience by managing the restaurant from the upstairs apartment while serving classic Tex-Mex dishes.
As the restaurant scene evolved, so did Molina’s Cantina. The Molinas played a crucial role in popularizing Tex-Mex cuisine, serving hearty dishes such as chili con carne and their famous chili cheese enchiladas topped with a fried egg. Coincidentally, the term “Tex-Mex” first appeared in print in Time magazine in 1941, the same year the Molinas began serving their cherished dishes.
By 1943, the family relocated to South Main Street and purchased a new restaurant, maintaining the original name, Mexico City Restaurant, due to financial constraints. During the tenure of Raul Jr. and his brother George in the Korean War, Mary and Raul Sr. successfully ran the restaurant. Upon their return, the brothers were made partners in the family business.
During this period, the Molina family transformed the perception of Tex-Mex from a seasonal indulgence to an all-year favorite. In 1944, they were pioneers in Houston for installing air-conditioning in restaurants, making dining a comfortable experience for locals even in the sweltering summer heat.
After a decade of operating as the Mexico City Restaurant, the ownership finally put their personal touch on the establishment by changing the name to Molina’s Mexico City Restaurant. In 1961, they simplified it to just Molina’s Cantina, further highlighting their family legacy.
Throughout the following decade, the Cantina introduced various dishes still cherished today. Classics like the Berlys Burrito, inspired by a regular customer’s request, feature beef or chicken fajita drenched in chili con carne. Other fan-favorite dishes, such as the C.W. Special and the Williams Special, were named after family friends and loyal staff, solidifying Molina’s commitment to its community.
By the mid-1970s, Molina’s made history once again as the first restaurant in Houston to serve frozen margaritas, a trend that quickly gained immense popularity. Raul Jr. eventually took over the family business entirely, with his three sons—Raul III, Roberto, and Ricardo—dedicating their work to continue the Molina legacy.
Now, all three sons co-own the business and manage daily operations across the three locations. Ricardo, who currently serves as the president, emphasizes the importance of keeping the business within the family, ensuring the traditions will be carried on for future generations.
Raul Jr. remains actively involved, often stopping by for his signature order of cheese enchiladas with an egg on top—a habit that has stuck with him throughout the years spent in the industry. “I never really had time for breakfast,” Raul Jr. reflects. “I was always on the run with the restaurants.”
Despite its long-standing history, Molina’s Cantina remains adaptable to changing times and evolving culinary trends. Ricardo acknowledges, “If you want to survive, you have to adapt.” In recent years, the restaurant has made strides to modernize its offering, launching to-go alcohol in 2021 and introducing new menu items like quesabirria tacos, street al pastor tacos, and a miniature margarita flight.
Molina’s has garnered community recognition, bringing pride to its family legacy. In 2011, Houston Mayor Annise Parker proclaimed July 1 as “Molina’s Cantina Day,” while the Texas Historical Commission is set to honor the establishment with the Texas Treasure Business Award in early 2025, celebrating its impact and historical significance in the city.
At the heart of Molina’s Cantina, the Molina family espouses a profound appreciation for the loyal patrons who have supported their restaurant over the years. Ricardo attributes their success and ability to endure changing times to the love and support from the community, a bond that elevates Molina’s beyond a mere restaurant and into an integral part of Houston’s dining landscape.
image source from:houstoniamag