Wednesday

08-13-2025 Vol 2051

Molina’s Cantina: A Houston Culinary Treasure for Over 80 Years

Molina’s Cantina, a cherished establishment in Houston, has been a vital part of the city’s culinary landscape for more than 80 years.

Its atmosphere resonates with familiarity, filled with the aroma of Tex-Mex cuisine and the sounds of laughter that reflect its longstanding history.

For locals, the restaurant has become a beloved destination, not just for food but also for the memories it holds.

Burch Downman, an 83-year-old regular, reminisces about his early visits, having been brought there in a baby carrier by his parents.

In a touching testament to their legacy, Raul Molina Jr., now 96, reflects on the numerous patrons who have graced the restaurant over the years, including notable figures like President George H. W. Bush, a fan so devoted that he arranged for tamales to be delivered to the White House in 1989.

The story of Molina’s Cantina begins in 1929 when Raul Molina Sr. moved from Laredo to Houston, seeking a better life.

He began his career in the food industry as a dishwasher and busboy at the Old Monterrey restaurant before seizing the opportunity to become the owner in 1941.

With support from his wife Mary and brother-in-law Jose Sarabia, he took over the restaurant, where every family member contributed to the daily operations.

While the kitchen was busy preparing their legacy dishes—like chili con carne and chili cheese enchiladas—Raul Sr. skillfully waited tables, and his sons Raul Jr. and George managed the dishwashing.

This was the year the term ‘Tex-Mex’ made its debut in print, notably in Time magazine, highlighting the Molinas’ contributions to what would become a defining cuisine.

As the family continued operating the restaurant for two years, they relocated in 1943 to South Main Street, purchasing a new venue named Mexico City Restaurant.

Despite financial restrictions preventing immediate name changes, they maintained the old name while continuing to serve their beloved dishes.

While Raul Jr. and George served their country during the Korean War, their parents successfully managed the restaurant, embodying a true family business ethos.

Upon their return, the brothers were made partners in the venture, marking a significant milestone in the family’s legacy.

The Molina family played a crucial role in redefining Tex-Mex from a seasonal treat to a beloved cuisine year-round.

In a pioneering move, they were among the first to install air-conditioning in a restaurant in Houston in 1944, drawing in crowds regardless of the sweltering summer heat.

After nearly two decades of operating as the Mexico City Restaurant, financial stability allowed the family to rename it in 1961 to Molina’s Mexico City Restaurant, and later simply to Molina’s Cantina during the 1980s.

The ensuing decade saw the introduction of new dishes that remain popular today, such as the Berlys Burrito, created from a customer’s request for something special.

Other dishes also have origins tied to friendships and family connections, like the C.W. Special and the Williams Special, honoring individuals who played significant roles in the restaurant’s history.

During the mid-1970s, Molina’s made history by becoming one of the first establishments in Houston to offer frozen margaritas, a move that proved to be a tremendous success.

By then, Raul Jr. had taken over the family business, and with the commitment of his three sons—Raul III, Roberto, and Ricardo—the family legacy continued.

Ricardo, now the president of the restaurant, emphasizes the importance of maintaining the family tradition, declaring, “It’s gotta stay in the family.”

Raul Jr. still frequents the restaurant, often ordering his favorite cheese enchiladas topped with an egg.

Though he rarely had time for breakfast during his years steering the restaurant, those habits have endured.

Embracing change has been integral to Molina’s survival.

Ricardo acknowledges the necessity of evolving with the times, noting the introduction of modern food trends to stay relevant in a competitive market.

Following the pandemic’s peak in 2021, the restaurant added to-go alcohol options and, just last month, welcomed new menu items like quesabirria tacos and street al pastor tacos.

Molina’s has gained accolades that extend beyond Houston.

In 2011, Mayor Annise Parker proclaimed July 1 as “Molina’s Cantina Day,” and in 2025, the Texas Historical Commission awarded Molina’s the Texas Treasure Business Award, celebrating its enduring legacy and impact on the community.

For the Molina family, the greatest reward continues to be the community’s support and love, which they believe is the cornerstone of Molina’s ability to thrive through generations.

image source from:houstoniamag

Abigail Harper