Captain Andy Lyngar stands on the bridge of the Wilderness Legacy, the strains of Pink Floyd’s ‘Wish You Were Here’ resonating as scudding gulls dance above, and bald eagles soar in the clearer skies.
Humpback whales break surface, their majestic presence marked by plumes and arcs of gleaming backs, before flukes rise to slap down on the sea.
In this moment, I can’t help but ponder whether these magnificent creatures are waving goodbye or playfully flipping us off, asserting their rightful claim to the ocean.
Irrefutably, they have a point.
As late spring settles in, these colossal beings are journeying to their summer feeding grounds from tropical waters, while we, bundled in layers of clothing, diligently clutch our binoculars and cameras clad in fingerless mittens, prepare to witness the wonders of Alaska.
Embarking with UnCruise, we departed from Seattle on a 12-day adventure traversing the narrow channels of Canada’s Inside Passage, with captivating stops at places like God’s Pocket, the stunning Misty Fjords, and Ketchikan before reaching the breathtaking Glacier Bay in Alaska.
But what truly sets UnCruise apart from traditional cruises?
For starters, the smaller vessels allow access to secluded channels and bays that larger ships can’t navigate.
While comfort is a priority with onboard amenities, there’s an undeniable unvarnished charm to the experience, which sleeps only 86 passengers—Wilderness Legacy being on the larger end of the fleet.
You won’t find indulgent spas or expansive gyms here, but rather a pair of inviting outdoor hot tubs and exercise bikes for those inclined.
Cabins possess a character all their own; the doors open directly to the decks, which means I occasionally dealt with a damp carpet during turbulent seas and rearranged pillows to find a suitable spot for my tea cup.
Despite these quirks, by the end of the first day, I felt entirely at home.
Captain Andy and his crew bring a unique warmth to the journey.
Unlike remote captains found on larger ships, UnCruise’s crew, including the down-to-earth Captain Andy—who bears a striking resemblance to a ZZ Top member—invites guests to visit the bridge.
Their engaging personalities shine through evening talks, with highlights like Miranda’s fascinating presentation on sea otters—these charming animals ensconce their pups in fronds of sea kelp to secure them while foraging for food.
You may also find binoculars in every cabin and an assortment of books in the lounge detailing Alaska’s history, flora, and fauna, enhancing our eagerness to dive into the experience.
Setting sail from the iconic Fishermen’s Terminal in Seattle—known as the home port for boats featured in ‘Deadliest Catch’—we cruised overnight towards Sucia Island for a hike under the sunniest skies.
However, we were forewarned that this would be the only trail on our itinerary, as many of our upcoming stops would be entirely uninhabited.
With sunlight illuminating our path, we noticed the bird population flourish, featuring bald eagles, great blue herons, pine siskins, and red-breasted nuthatches.
Upon return, Hadder, our bartender, whips up a new daily cocktail while ample snacks are expertly laid out—guests quickly learn that hunger is not an option aboard.
We swiftly fell into a comfortable routine of first breakfast at the bar, followed by a stretching session (which saw a dwindling group of participants), culminating in a main breakfast where chef Séamus outlined the day’s activities including kayaking, bushwhacking, and relaxed eco-meanders.
Throughout this experience, I formed connections with fellow travelers—an adventurous Australian, a newlywed couple from Minnesota, and a retired professor from Texas—among others.
On sea days and in the evenings, we gathered to play cribbage, piece together jigsaws, and swap stories of our sightings.
Despite occasionally envying those with high-end cameras capable of capturing breathtaking shots, I embraced my own equipment, appreciating the uniqueness of personal experiences rather than just focusing on visual documentation.
As we set out on our first full day, we crossed the border into Canada and were treated to coastlines that were unquestionably picturesque.
The search for elusive spirit bears—distinct from polar bears—was on, though our eagerness didn’t yield immediate sightings.
Weather remained friendly as we sailed into God’s Pocket, a serene area on the southern expanse of Queen Charlotte Sound, where mariners historically found refuge before setting off into rougher waters.
Kayaking through the Tongass National Forest was nothing short of glorious; however, I quickly learned the importance of investing in quality wet-gear pants, as even the calmest waters could lead to damp mischief caused by paddles.
Continuing to venture north, a bounty of wildlife graced us: sea otters, harbor seals, sea lions, starfish, anemones, mountain goats, a lone wolf, and even tufted puffins, not to mention a stunning double rainbow that brightened the sky.
Intermittent announcements from the bridge kept our spirits high, alerting us to happenings we might overlook, such as Dall’s porpoises frolicking by the bow, and exciting sightings of whales and wolves.
And then, the big moment—an actual bear sighting!
Unfortunately, I missed seeing it myself but found joy in the excitement radiating from fellow guests.
Their glee confirmed that these powerful creatures were indeed present in the wild around us.
The only instances of human habitation occurred in bustling Ketchikan and Juneau.
Ketchikan, once a Tlingit fishing camp, flourished from Irishman Mike Martin’s vision in 1885, and though it has modernized, remnants of its history remain; one can still walk the old stilted paths of Creek Street, formerly home to a red-light district that provided dubious independence to local women until its prohibition in 1954.
Bear sightings remain a warning sign throughout the region.
In our uninhabited adventure stops, we always received the ‘Bear Talk.’ It’s essential to remember never to say the word “bear” unless you’re spotting one.
If a bear sighting occurs, announce it loudly but remain calm; don’t approach or run away from the bear; instead, clasp the shoulders of your guide and trust their judgment.
I started having doubts about encountering a bear until our exhilarating bushwhack trek.
Bushwhacking with UnCruise means embarking on a hike across uninhabited terrain without trails—a true adventure with no predetermined route.
Despite the muddy terrain, this exhilarating experience yielded a promising start, marked by a moose footprint gracing the shoreline and an arduous hike up an impossible incline filled with skunk cabbage adorned with vibrant yellow flowers.
Interestingly, bears feast on the roots of this plant after their winter slumber to alleviate constipation.
As we advanced deeper into the wilderness, the excitement accumulated until a hushed ‘Bear’ echoed faintly, quickly prompting attentive action among the group.
Yet, it took a louder proclamation for everyone to focus their eyes on our guide, Nicole, who paused with something magnificent before us—an enormous, dark bear ambling gracefully through the trees.
The bear, clearly in a post-hibernation mood, approached within 10 meters of us, allowing one-handed photographers to capture the moment while the rest of us squeezed our heads around a few necks for a view.
In a stillness that enveloped us, Nicole calmly reached for her bear spray, yet just as quickly as he appeared, the bear veered off, drawn away by more tantalizing scents in the foliage, leaving us breathless and giddy with exhilaration at our rare encounter.
What felt like only a minute may have lasted longer, transforming a fleeting moment into a lasting memory etched in our minds.
On the subsequent return to the boat, we navigated the high banks along the shore, eventually scoping out a slide of soft earth to greet the shore with muddy backsides and beaming smiles.
One guest aptly described it as a ‘Type Two enjoyment’—an experience that can be arduous or uncomfortable in the moment but becomes amazing in recollection.
Indeed, each adventure so far had proven to be one of extraordinary magnitude, and the glaciers awaited us next.
As our journey progressed northward, ice became a common sight at water’s edge.
Alaska’s vastness is almost beyond comprehension; both tiny and towering entities exist side by side, from kittiwakes to immense glaciers.
Waterfalls glisten as they freeze, a testament to the mercurial microclimate of Glacier Bay.
The ice in this area gradually shifts to shades of blue, and as we venture further north, distinctive geological formations illuminate the rugged landscape, resembling what Nicole aptly termed a ‘geological train wreck.’
I was awakened at dawn one fateful morning by clanging and thumping—the colossal ice masses were crashing against the vessel’s hull.
Excitement mounted as we meandered closer to Johns Hopkins Glacier, drawn to the mysterious sounds that echoed like cannon fire from its powerful depths.
The Tlingit knew it as white thunder—a fitting tribute to a force that speaks of the Earth’s raw beauty, challenging the imagination to comprehend its vast existence.
At Lamplugh Glacier, kayakers were presented with an opportunity to see stunning ice formations and a multitude of birds—I cherished every beautiful moment.
The finale of our journey revealed an invitation for the ultimate polar plunge.
Voluntary and exhilarating, participants shed their layers to plunge into frigid waters—an experience I eagerly embraced for the joy of the moment, delighted to survive the daring leap.
To heighten the experience, the crew, sensing a lively moment, unsparingly tossed Captain Andy into the chilly waters—completely attired—with hearty cheers from the celebrating guests.
Not for a moment did I regret the thrill or the leap; it was an exhilarating end to a magnanimous adventure on Alaska’s Inside Passage.
Gemma Tipton was a guest of UnCruise and The Port of Seattle.
For those looking to explore this breathtaking journey, Aer Lingus provides direct flights from Dublin to Seattle.
UnCruise offers a 12-night itinerary priced from $6,700 per person, or $11,700 for single occupancy, which includes all meals, drinks, equipment, and activities—but tips, port fees, and taxes are additional.
Future voyages are scheduled for September 2025 and from April 2026.
Travelers return to Seattle via Alaska Airlines from Juneau.
For those planning to explore Seattle, consider arriving a day or two early to discover local attractions, including the iconic Monorail and Space Needle.
A stop for a cocktail and small bites atop the Space Needle offers breathtaking panoramic views for $37.50.
At the base, the Chihuly Garden and Glass provides an insight into the artistry of Seattle’s renowned glass artist for an admission fee of $35.
If hunger strikes, two popular spots include a leisurely stroll through Pike Place Market or taking part in the Savor Breakfast and Culture Tour.
image source from：irishtimes
