At El Catrín, a beloved restaurant located in north Oak Cliff, Dallas, food enthusiasts have the chance to experience zacahuil, a giant tamal that can weigh up to 50 pounds and reach lengths of about 3 1/2 feet.
This unique dish hails from the La Huasteca region in northeastern Mexico and has deep historical roots that trace back over 600 years.
According to Lú Ferreira, a native of La Huasteca and a regular customer at El Catrín, traditional zacahuil was originally wrapped in a leaf from the papatla plant.
However, due to its availability in Dallas, banana leaves are now used, yielding similar results.
Ferreira noted that zacahuil is typically enjoyed during large gatherings such as parties, weddings, quinceañeras, and baptisms.
Despite its festive modern-day context, the dish’s origins are steeped in a grim history.
In the 1400s, an envoy of Emperor Moctezuma, ruling over Tenochtitlán, was executed and dismembered after being accused of heinous crimes in Huasteca.
After his execution, his body was cooked into a tamal, and this dark narrative set the stage for what zacahuil has come to represent today.
In contemporary times, the dish has moved away from its horrific beginnings with fillings commonly featuring chicken, turkey, and pork—though El Catrín specializes in the pork version.
“It had a cruel origin, but now we eat it during happy moments,” Ferreira remarked about the dish.
For Ferreira and many others, finding zacahuil in a restaurant like El Catrín brings back memories of their homeland.
El Catrín, located at 835 Jefferson Blvd., Dallas, stands out not only for its food but also for its vibrant and culturally rich atmosphere.
The restaurant is adorned with over 50 paintings that showcase various Mexican motifs and iconic figures, from musicians to wrestlers and classic film stars.
Anselma Betancourt, who opened El Catrín 11 years ago, draws inspiration from Veracruz cuisine, which is known for its tropical flavors and family recipes.
As an area that is part of La Huasteca, the significance of preparing zacahuil resonates deeply with Betancourt.
Her process begins with carefully selecting and cooking the corn, the essential base for a quality tamal, which is cooked with lime before it’s ground at a mill to achieve the right texture.
She then combines the corn with various chilies and meats before wrapping it in banana leaves for several hours of steaming.
Betancourt adds raw meat to the mixture.
She believes this allows the natural juices and flavors to infuse into the corn, creating the distinctive taste that customers adore.
Having learned the traditional methods of preparing zacahuil at local markets, Betancourt shares her pride in bringing a meaningful part of her culture to life through her dishes.
“I am very proud that people like it and are trying something that reminds them of their town,” she said, reflecting on the significance of this culinary tradition in a foreign land.
El Catrín continues to be a destination for those craving authentic Mexican cuisine and a taste of home.
image source from：dallasnews
