L’Echelle, a newly opened bistro on Southeast Division Street, emerges as a culinary tribute to the late Naomi Pomeroy, renowned chef and former owner of the influential Northeast Portland restaurant, Beast.
Five years after Pomeroy’s departure from the dining scene, her vision for L’Echelle was brought to life by her business partner, Luke Dirks, alongside longtime colleague, Mika Paredes.
The restaurant has quickly made a name for itself, showcasing a unique take on classic bistro dishes, including an impressive preparation of Vichy-style carrots: whole, peeled, and cooked in salted water, finished with honey and butter, then garnished with parsley.
Despite the commonness of stylish bistros in cities like New York, L’Echelle stands out in Portland, creating a charming and intimate atmosphere infused with candlelight and a menu that artfully balances tradition with creativity.
Under the guidance of chef Paredes, the kitchen, which also includes chef de cuisine McKinzy Calapp and sous chef Kyrstianna White, serves a range of small plates, known as “petits plats,” that offer a playful twist on classic flavors.
For instance, their oeufs mayonnaise features soft-boiled eggs draped in a cascade of aioli and topped with salmon roe, while the fried chickpea panisse is reimagined with a hint of comté, drawing comparisons to mozzarella sticks.
The jambon plate presents a deconstructed twist on the jambon-beurre, featuring high-quality baguette slices, premium Euro-style butter, and lowry Hills Provisions’ softly smoked ham that rivals that of its predecessor.
The ambiance, transformed from the dark woods of Woodsman Tavern to a lighter, more inviting setting with off-white and glossy blue accents, creates a pleasant dining experience.
Patrons can take advantage of a well-curated bar menu featuring bourbon and creative cocktails, with highlights like the Vesper glacée, a chilled martini-like drink embellished with lemon olive oil and garnished with pickled vegetables.
Guests are welcomed to begin their meals with a variety of appetizers such as oysters on the half shell, a traditional shrimp cocktail accompanied by horseradish cream, or a frisée Lyonnaise prepared with lardons and duck fat croutons.
Although the restaurant succeeds in many regards, some dishes among the entrees may not consistently hit the mark, as noted in the experiences of various diners.
A pork crepinette, accompanied by snap peas and mint, drew questions about its presentation, while a duck dish appeared overcooked and lacking vibrancy on certain occasions.
In contrast, the steak au poivre comes recommended, with a seared NY strip prepared impeccably on multiple visits, served alongside Vichy carrots that perfectly complement the dish.
The celebrated Kennebec fries, boiled and fried to create a crispy exterior while remaining fluffy inside, have also garnered acclaim, asserting their place among Portland’s best.
Desserts at L’Echelle, while modest, offer satisfying selections such as a fig leaf-infused blancmange or a rich dark chocolate ganache cake, rounding out an inviting meal.
The restaurant maintains a reasonable pricing strategy to cater to its Richmond neighborhood clientele, with starters beginning at $8 and selected entrees priced under $20.
The dining experience is particularly accessible, as L’Echelle features a single-level layout with wheelchair accessible tables and restrooms.
Reservations are limited to two-thirds of the seating, accommodating spontaneous dining experiences as walk-in patrons are welcome, creating a lively neighborhood atmosphere as families and friends gather to share food and wine.
As L’Echelle continues to evolve, the restaurant stands as a heartfelt homage to Pomeroy’s legacy, embodying her philosophy that cooking is a vital means of caring for others, a sentiment deeply felt by the team.
With plans to expand dining availability to include Mondays and Tuesdays next month, L’Echelle promises to be a cornerstone of the local dining scene.
Located at 4537 S.E. Division St., further details about L’Echelle and its offerings can be found at lechellepdx.com.
image source from：oregonlive
