Fair Weather, a noted brunch restaurant in Portland, has closed its doors permanently this week. Owner Derek Hanson cited slow weekday sales as the main reason for the closure.
Having been a presence on Southeast Clinton Street for nearly a decade, the restaurant had undergone various brunch iterations since its inception. The latest rendition had earned praise from The Oregonian, describing it as “artful, nourishing, seafood-rich (and) the best brunch in town” earlier this year.
Despite the positive reviews and a brief counter-service revival, Hanson’s declaration that the shutdown is final comes after challenges with low sales during the week, high labor costs, and steep operating expenses. With slow drink sales compounding the issue, Hanson explained, “The margins were unsustainable.”
However, the space that once housed Fair Weather is not left vacant. On July 31, just a day after the closure, Merrow, a pop-up wine and seafood restaurant by chef Alec Hess, began serving customers at the former location.
Additionally, there are more culinary developments in the area. A new pop-up called Rhinestone is expected to launch later this summer, transforming the former Night Light Lounge into a full-time bar. Rhinestone promises a unique experience with “elevated-Southwest-fast-food” offerings crafted by longtime Stammtisch chef Graham Chaney, alongside drink selections from bartender Trevor Thorpe.
As a farewell to Fair Weather, it is worth recalling one of its signature dishes. The shrimp and grits featured a remarkable presentation, starting with a poached egg that rose from a swirl of greens. It reflected both creativity and an unexpected twist on classic brunch fare.
While the shrimp and grits may have been featured prominently, it was not alone in standing out. When available, the Dungeness crab toast doused in Hollandaise sauce drew diners’ attention, having transitioned from Fair Weather’s dinner menu to brunch.
On days when crab toast was absent, customers might have opted for the rectangular waffles, praised for their fluffy yet crisp texture, served with a granular praline-hazelnut butter and a small carafe of maple syrup for a personalized touch.
Other notable menu items included a dish with black cod and green garlic cream and a sweet Japanese potato, generously topped with bonito and a breaded fried poached egg—affirmatively delightful.
Although seafood was a central theme of Fair Weather, the menu provided ample variety with options like baby breakfast sliders featuring succulent pork sausage, fluffy eggs, and an array of pickles. These sliders were accompanied by an adorable eye dropper filled with hot sauce, reminiscent of the offerings at Jacqueline.
Despite facing operational challenges, the service at Fair Weather was commendable. On one particularly busy weekday, several staff members had called out sick, yet the calm demeanor of individuals like Katie Sombat ensured that service continued to run smoothly. Chef Cici Wollack was seen delivering plates as Hanson assisted with back-end operations, showcasing a committed team approach.
With the closure of Fair Weather, it seems to mark a cyclical occurrence, similar to a cicada returning to the earth for a multi-year dormancy. Yet, despite the definitive closing, Hanson still holds two and a half years remaining on his lease. He has plans for transforming the restaurant in the future, which may involve a new dinner menu that features small plates and an expanded wine list, thoughtfully curated by Sombat, while reducing the emphasis on seafood to avoid overlap with Jacqueline’s offerings.
As fans of Fair Weather, the hope remains that this new venture will endure longer than previous iterations.
image source from：oregonlive
