Willy Chavarría’s latest collaboration with Adidas has sparked intense discourse and debate, particularly concerning cultural representation and appropriation.
The designer’s sneaker hybrid huarache was first showcased at the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico during an Adidas Originals panel discussion. However, controversy ignited after Chavarría posted a now-deleted teaser on his Instagram with the simple caption “SOON.”
This post led to a flurry of discussions online, with many people questioning the cultural implications of the newly designed huaraches, which feature black woven leather and a chunky sneaker base. Critics are particularly concerned about whether the shoes, manufactured in China, properly honor the traditional craftsmanship and cultural significance of the original huaraches made in Mexico by Indigenous artisans.
Pedro Ramirez, a Los Angeles huarache vendor who has been selling the traditional footwear for three decades, articulated strong feelings about the collaboration. Standing amidst a display of leather huaraches in El Faro Plaza, he remarked, “We respect Adidas, but they have to respect what’s ours too.”
Ramirez explained that while the intentions behind the collaboration might be good, it ultimately disrespects the traditional craftsmanship and artistry that has been maintained over decades.
He pointed to his own products, which bear a “Hecho en Mexico” stamp, and emphasized that maintaining the original designs is crucial for cultural preservation.
Rosario, the owner of Vicky’s Huaraches y Botas at the Alameda Swapmeet, echoed Ramirez’s sentiments, calling the situation unfortunate. She expressed disappointment that a project rooted in their culture was manufactured overseas, stating, “Right now, our community is feeling very vulnerable, and this could’ve been a beautiful thing that made us feel seen and proud, but instead it’s made in China.”
The debate expands beyond local vendors to discussions about the historical significance of huaraches in Mexico. Originating in states like Michoacán, Jalisco, and Yucatán, these traditional sandals date back to pre-Columbian times. Some critics allege that Chavarría’s design does not accurately reflect the true heritage of the huarache, specifically pointing out the style of weaving used, which is believed to originate from Michoacán rather than Oaxaca.
The controversy reached the governance levels in Mexico, with Oaxacan Governor Salomón Jara Cruz publicly accusing the company of copying the Yalálag design without appropriate acknowledgment of the Indigenous community, particularly from the village of Villa de Hidalgo Yalálag. Cruz’s letter criticized the lack of credit and permission for the design.
In a subsequent news conference, Mexico’s President Claudia Sheinbaum emphasized the need for corporate accountability in these situations, highlighting that “big companies often take products, ideas, and designs from Indigenous communities” without proper recognition.
She stated, “It’s collective intellectual property. The heritage law must be complied with,” and highlighted the importance of legal measures to support Indigenous groups in these circumstances.
Chendo Jacquez, a Lynwood business owner, expressed a similar disappointment, noting that while he appreciates Chavarría’s efforts to represent his culture, the opportunity to collaborate with local artisans in Oaxaca and Los Angeles was a missed chance for genuine partnership.
Jacquez, reflecting on the political climate and ongoing issues of cultural erosion faced by Latino communities, remarked, “It’s not cancel culture and us being offended by everything, it’s just like, cabrón ponte las pilas.”
He emphasized how huaraches are not just footwear but a deep cultural symbol, representing memories that hark back to childhood experiences in Cotija de La Paz, Michoacán. The “made in China” label drew his attention as it signified mass production, contrasting sharply with the meticulous craftsmanship of Mexican artisans who create these shoes by hand, each pair embodying careful dedication and artistry.
Critics point out that other brands have successfully navigated collaborations by upholding ethical standards. A recent example includes Texas-based Player Under Pressure, which worked with Nike to launch a slip-on shoe inspired by huaraches, ensuring that their production took place in Sahuayo, Michoacán—a practice that honors local traditions.
Luz Valdez, a creator, took to social media to explain that there is nothing inherently wrong with modernizing huarache designs, suggesting that this has been a common practice already embraced by the people of Mexico. She pointed out that brands like Calzado Trova have been successful in merging modern sneakers with traditional huaraches in a way that respects and upholds the heritage of the artisans.
In contrast, Valdez accuses Adidas of copying existing designs outright, rather than drawing inspiration respectfully. “Our handcrafted and Mexican items are always in fashion as long as artisans do not make them,” she stated, underscoring the authenticity that is lost in such corporate projects.
The huarache holds particular significance in representing resistance, both in Mexico and among the Latino community in Los Angeles. A TikTok user known as Yulia G shared insights about the historical roots of huaraches in America, tracing their introduction during the Bracero Program in the 1940s when many workers from Michoacán arrived in the U.S., often wearing these iconic shoes.
“They became a symbol of Mexican working-class identity in the U.S.,” Yulia G explained, noting how by the 1970s, huaraches had been embraced by the Chicano movement, becoming part of civil rights protests and broader cultural conversations.
As the public outcry continues, Willy Chavarría has remained silent on the backlash. However, the Mexican government announced that Adidas has agreed to meet with representatives from Oaxaca to discuss the issues at hand.
The unfolding situation underscores the need for open dialogues within communities about cultural representation and respect. Jacquez articulated a common sentiment, saying, “We want to be taken seriously, and when a giant like Adidas gets to work with a Latino, it’s a beautiful thing and we should cherish it and be proud of it, but let’s do it right.”
Ultimately, the huarache remains a meaningful symbol within the community, embodying not just tradition but also the ongoing challenge of cultural preservation in a globalized world.
image source from：lataco
