In Atlanta, Gregory ‘Gee’ Smalls and his husband Juan are making waves in the culinary scene with their upscale dining establishment, Virgil’s Gullah Kitchen and Bar.
Focusing on Gullah Geechee cuisine, which represents the oldest Black culture in America, they aim not just to serve food but also to uphold a rich legacy.
Smalls, aged 48, hails from James Island, located north of Charleston, where many of the dishes on their menu are inspired by recipes passed down through generations.
The restaurant is named in memory of Smalls’ father, Virgil, and features a striking mural of him by local artist C. Flux Sing.
Since its inception in 2019 on Main Street in College Park, the restaurant has thrived, expanding to new locations in West Midtown and Conyers, showcasing low-country delicacies such as Smotha’d Poke Chops and Slammin’ Sammen.
Smalls articulates that Virgil’s is not just a restaurant but a platform to promote awareness around the Gullah Geechee culture, which has often been overlooked.
He emphasizes the importance of this culture, stating that it has not always received the celebration that it deserves, and he takes immense pride in being a part of its preservation.
Adding to their entrepreneurial success, Smalls and Juan opened another venture, the Breakfast Boys, in 2021 alongside Atlanta restaurateur Lorenzo Wyche.
This brunch spot took over the former Kafenio space on Main Street, continuing the couple’s commitment to diverse culinary offerings.
However, the journey has not been without challenges; a grease fire in October 2024 forced the closure of their original College Park location.
Currently, Smalls confirms that they are in the process of rebuilding and are hopeful for a reopening later this summer.
Looking ahead, Smalls envisions a bright future for Virgil’s, with plans to further establish the brand through retail products based on their menu items and potential new locations, including at the airport.
Furthermore, Smalls is not only an entrepreneur but also an author.
His memoir, ‘Black Enough, Man Enough: Embracing My Mixed Race and Sexual Fluidity,’ originally released in 2019, has recently seen a re-release tailored for a broader audience.
This PG-13 version emerged from the necessity to make the book more accessible, particularly for families who found the explicit content limiting their readership.
In addition to his culinary and literary pursuits, Smalls co-founded ‘The Gentlemen’s Ball,’ an annual black-tie gala celebrating Black LGBTQ accomplishments.
This event not only honors individuals in the community but also benefits ‘The Gentlemen’s Foundation,’ which focuses on the holistic development of Black men in the LGBTQ space.
The idea for the gala stemmed from a need for representation, as many existing black-tie events overlooked Black LGBTQ+ individuals.
Smalls notes the necessity for elevated images and spaces for their community, especially considering many attendees missed the chance to celebrate such milestones during their youth.
The Gentlemen’s Ball, described as a ‘second chance’ prom, is set to relaunch in the coming years, with plans for a significant Black pride event in Atlanta to raise funds and secure sponsorships.
Smalls aims to bring back the Gala by Fall 2026, emphasizing the community’s need for visibility and celebration.
For those seeking advice, he encourages surrounding oneself with love and support, acknowledging that societal pressures can often make individuals feel inadequate.
He underscores the importance of self-love as a journey to vulnerability and self-awareness.
Though uncertain about authoring another book, Smalls is excited about new projects, including a seven-episode podcast chronicling the love story he shares with Juan, alongside a talk show set to premiere on YouTube later this summer.
On the culinary front, they plan to launch their Bussin’ Corn Muffins, a favorite item from their menu, for retail distribution.
One of the joys of working together as co-owners, Smalls reflects, is the quality time spent alongside Juan, strengthening their bond.
Their intertwined lives allow them to connect deeply through their work, making their partnership both a personal and professional success.
When not engrossed in their business ventures, Smalls enjoys traveling and visiting the beach, particularly favoring Brazil, which he frequents multiple times a year, as well as destinations like Mexico and Miami.
Reflecting on his journey, Smalls expresses a newfound understanding that true fulfillment lies in embracing one’s identity rather than conforming to external standards of worth.
He reiterates the message to others: ‘You are enough too, just the way you are. I invite you to own that and set yourself free.’
image source from：theatlantavoice
