The Portland culinary scene has been buzzing with excitement following the recent opening of L’Échelle, a new French bistro under the leadership of Luke Dirks and executive chef Mika Paredes.
Just days after its grand opening, enthusiastic social media influencers began declaring it ‘Portland’s best new restaurant!’, despite the early days’ rush being a bit hasty for such high praise.
The restaurant’s journey to its initial opening has been anything but smooth.
Originally envisioned as the next venture for celebrated culinary star Naomi Pomeroy, L’Échelle was set to take over the space of the former Woodsman Tavern.
Pomeroy, renowned for her previous successes with Beast and Ripe Cooperative, had created significant buzz leading up to the restaurant’s launch through a series of sold-out garden party dinners.
Tragedy struck on July 13, 2024, when Pomeroy died in an inner-tubing accident on the Willamette River, leaving the Portland restaurant community mourning.
Despite the heartache, Dirks chose to move forward with the project, receiving the blessing of Pomeroy’s family to carry on her vision.
The name L’Échelle, which translates to ‘ladder’ in French, was eventually made public along with the plans for a brick-and-mortar establishment.
However, the path continued to present challenges.
Pomeroy’s original choice for an executive chef was dismissed, leading to a prolonged search until it was announced that Paredes, Pomeroy’s longtime partner in the Cornet Custard venture, would be stepping into the role.
The unfolding of these events has led to a unique mix of emotions surrounding L’Échelle’s highly-anticipated opening.
Many are uncertain whether the fervor surrounding the bistro is genuine excitement for a new establishment or merely a reaction spurred by social media hype.
By the time L’Échelle opened at the end of May, the anticipation had led to lines snaking outside the doors, with eager diners facing long waits due to a no-reservations policy.
Contrary to the dreams of every restaurant owner, this initial rush proved to be a mixed blessing.
During the first weekend of service, L’Échelle ran out of food by mid-Saturday, prompting the decision to close the following Sunday—a less than ideal situation for a brand-new restaurant.
However, Dirks, with his wealth of experience in the industry, remained optimistic and reported that ‘a few adjustments’ were being made to improve the service and experience.
As the lines began to decrease, I revisited L’Échelle for a late evening meal at the bar.
The lack of a wait at this hour was a welcome sign, and it was announced shortly thereafter that reservations would soon be available.
By early July, I secured a 5 PM reservation and returned to experience a meal in the bistro’s dining room.
Upon arrival, the atmosphere felt inviting and well-designed, featuring a mix of white and blue paint, light and dark wood accents, and an art deco aesthetic illuminated by low-hanging light fixtures.
The south-facing storefront windows ensured an abundance of evening sunlight, and the spacious layout of tables offered a comfortable environment for private conversations.
While the ambient noise from lively diners and music created a bustling atmosphere, it was still manageable, allowing for enjoyable interactions.
Service was attentive and enthusiastic, with friendly and knowledgeable staff contributing to a positive dining experience.
Dirks himself was present, frequently checking in with guests and staff, demonstrating hands-on leadership.
Initially, the menu at L’Échelle was somewhat limited, but recent updates have shown promising evolution.
If there are plans for further expansion and exploration of the menu, it could elevate the restaurant even more.
The dishes I sampled were noteworthy, with many items priced to appeal to a wide range of patrons.
All small plates, sides, and even some seafood selections remained under $20—a refreshing aspect for diners seeking value.
A standout dish was the quenelle of chicken liver mousse ($14), which dazzled the palate with its luxurious texture and rich flavor.
The classic lyonnaise salad ($16) boasted a substantial portion, complete with a perfectly poached egg nestled atop curly frisée, lardons, and croutons.
Meanwhile, the pork sausage “crépinette” ($18), which is a highly seasoned ground pork patty wrapped in caul fat, proved succulent and came with spring vegetables in broth.
Two other highlights were the leeks vinaigrette ($15), a delightful summer appetizer that struck the right balance of tenderness and tartness, and Parisienne gnocchi ($21), noted for their lightness, complemented by a cloud of creamy whipped celeriac.
However, the frites ($12), although crispy on the outside, lacked the desired texture on the inside during my first tasting.
Overall, the trajectory seems positive for L’Échelle as it navigates its inaugural days.
While it’s perhaps premature to label the restaurant as the best in town, it certainly presents itself as a compelling choice worthy of future accolades.
Ultimately, time will tell whether L’Échelle can solidify its place among Portland’s culinary gems.
For now, diners are encouraged to visit and form their own opinions as the new bistro sets its course in the vibrant local food landscape.
image source from：wweek
