James Kai Louie, co-owner of Huber’s — Portland’s oldest restaurant — passed away at the age of 79 on Monday, leaving behind a rich legacy and a family committed to upholding the restaurant’s storied traditions.
Louie, a grandnephew of the establishment’s original chef, played an instrumental role in shaping the dining experience at Huber’s, renowned for its Spanish coffee prepared tableside.
Huber’s has been a cornerstone of Portland’s culinary scene for nearly 150 years, first opening its doors in 1879 as the Bureau Saloon.
The restaurant relocated in 1884, and a few years later, Frank Huber, the Bureau’s bartender, took ownership of the establishment.
In 1891, Huber made a pivotal decision that would influence the restaurant’s history: he hired Louie Wei Fung, known as Jim Louie.
Louie was only 11 years old when he stowed away on a ship from Guangzhou, China, making his remarkable journey to Portland.
The duo of Huber and Louie became a culinary dream team, with Huber serving drinks and Louie showcasing his talent with roast turkey.
In an interview with famed Oregonian writer Stewart Holbrook, Jim Louie recounted an unforgettable experience from 1894 during a major flood when he served customers from a rowboat.
A party arrived in a naphtha launch and Louie, undeterred by the floodwaters, artistically dished out steamed clams and turkey sandwiches.
This creative spirit in a time of adversity solidified Louie’s legacy, particularly against the backdrop of widespread anti-Chinese sentiment.
Despite these challenges, his roast turkey sandwiches became a highlight, helping the restaurant thrive even when Oregon banned alcohol five years before the national prohibition.
In its effort to adapt, the Bureau pivoted towards its food offerings, even if it meant creatively serving cocktails concealed in coffee mugs.
Decades later, in the 1970s, a new cocktail took center stage: the Spanish coffee, introduced by James Kai Louie.
This theatrical drink became another trademark of Huber’s, showcasing elaborate preparation that captured the attention of diners.
Bartenders dressed in waistcoats would perform the intricate process of creating Spanish coffee tableside, igniting high-proof rum and other spirits for an impressive effect.
The process involved warming sugar-rimmed glasses and caramelizing the sugar while pouring Kahlúa coffee liqueur and coffee, topped off with whipped cream.
Such labor-intensive preparation has drawn crowds, reviving the thrill of dinner theater to the restaurant’s bar scene.
Huber’s bar now claims to sell more Kahlúa than any other establishment in the United States, an impressive feat that speaks to the drink’s local popularity.
Moreover, celebrated bartender and author Jeffrey Morgenthaler suggests that Spanish coffee may represent Portland’s quintessential cocktail.
Like Huber’s famous turkey dinner, which is still served today by the fourth generation of Louies, the Spanish coffee stands as a must-try for anyone visiting the iconic restaurant.
James Kai Louie’s contribution to Portland’s culinary heritage will be remembered, with Huber’s continuing to serve as a testament to his family’s commitment to excellence in dining.
image source from：opb
