Traveling along the East Coast often leads to an inevitable indulgence in pizza, particularly when exploring the renowned pizza scene of New Haven, Connecticut.
During a recent trip with family, skepticism surrounded the decision to visit Sally’s Apizza, widely regarded as one of the best pizzerias in a city claiming to be the “Pizza Capital of the United States.”
The summer heat brought a long line of eager patrons, which added to the anticipation as I guided my family toward our pizza adventure. Thankfully, there was a nearby park to keep the kids entertained while I waited to enter the famous establishment.
For me, this visit was more than just about enjoying a meal; it was a quest to deepen my understanding of New Haven-style pizza, which has gained considerable popularity across America.
As a result, various establishments, from Portland, Oregon, to Delray Beach, Florida, now claim inspiration from the noted style.
However, this led me to wonder which of the many pizzerias outside of Connecticut truly capture the essence of the original.
In Portland, Apizza Scholls, often celebrated as the standout, has garnered much esteem, yet my impression suggested its offerings mirror those of New York or New Jersey more than the authentic New Haven experience.
Conversely, newer ventures like Dimo’s Apizza have attempted to recreate the famous char of New Haven-style pizzas through innovative dual-oven techniques.
After a lengthy 90-minute wait on a Monday, our group finally reached the host stand and entered the cozy dining space of Sally’s.
The interior, marked by casual seating and wall decor, felt reminiscent of traditional pizzerias from bygone eras, reinforcing the nostalgia of dining out for pizza.
We placed our orders—including a classic cheese pizza for the kids, along with two designated local specialties: a clam pizza topped with fresh garlic and a tomato pie with just a hint of Parm cheese.
Another 45 minutes passed before our dishes arrived, with sizable pizzas presented on white butcher paper atop enormous baking sheets.
To my surprise, the offerings were not as boldly spiced or heavily charred as I’d anticipated; rather, they possessed a gentler profile.
What struck me most was an unexpected resemblance to another Portland favorite—Pizza Jerk, known for its family-friendly atmosphere and laid-back vibe.
This connection prompted a memory of Pizza Jerk’s founder, Tommy Habetz, who has openly shared how his culinary inspirations stemmed from youthful visits to Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana—the pioneering establishment that laid the groundwork for New Haven-style pizza decades earlier.
Notably, Sally’s Apizza, opened by Salvatore “Sally” Consiglio in 1938, enjoyed its own evolution along the historic Wooster Street, alongside its predecessor, Frank Pepe’s.
The thin, chewy dough and the pizza’s slightly elongated shape, along with the casual slicing that defied uniformity, brought me back to many enjoyable evenings at Pizza Jerk with my own family.
Reflecting on this pizza pilgrimage, I realized that, at least on that particular busy night in New Haven, Pizza Jerk stood out more favorably than Sally’s in achieving the characteristics I associate with authentic New Haven-style pizza.
As I consider my next visit to Connecticut, I intend to explore Frank Pepe’s offerings, while still holding the belief that I may not encounter a pizza experience superior to what is offered in Portland.
In light of this experience, one cannot help but wonder if it’s time to reconsider the title of “Pizza Capital of the United States” and consider relocating it to the West Coast.
Such musings take on increased significance, inviting further exploration of regional pizza variations across the country and the cultural significance of these culinary traditions.
image source from:oregonlive