In the heart of Denver’s Five Points neighborhood, Pig and Tiger has quickly become a culinary beacon, drawing in patrons from all walks of life with its unique take on Taiwanese cuisine.
Founded by chefs Darren Chang and Travis Masar, the restaurant embodies a rich tapestry of their varied experiences with Asian food and a shared ambition to reimagine traditional dishes for a modern audience.
Chang, who grew up in Los Angeles after immigrating from Taiwan, brings a personal connection to the menu. His childhood was filled with home-cooked meals, from sauces crafted for zhajiangmian (saucy pork noodles) to the comforting flavors of lu rou fan (braised pork rice).
Masar, meanwhile, hails from southeastern Colorado, where Asian cuisine was limited to typical American-Chinese takeout experiences. His appreciation for Taiwanese food blossomed later in life through mentors and transformative experiences, including a trip to Taiwan. He draws parallels between the communal dining customs he witnessed there and the traditions he grew up with.
The collaboration between Chang and Masar shines brightly on their menu. They aim not only to preserve tradition but to make their food accessible and relatable to a diverse clientele.
One standout dish, the L.A. beef roll, offers a fresh take on filling, featuring beef shank, tongue, and charred scallion tortillas served taco-style. This dish exemplifies a fusion of their backgrounds and an intent to make Taiwanese and American flavors harmonious.
Another highlight is the Taiwanese fried chicken, which was originally envisioned as a large, flattened cutlet. Instead, they opted for a more familiar bone-in combination of breast, wing, and leg, resulting in a juicier chicken while still bringing the authentic taste of Taiwanese street markets to diners.
However, creating this new culinary experience has not come without its challenges. Sourcing authentic ingredients can be tricky, with many items not available through mainstream distributors. Chang and Masar often turn to local Asian markets for essentials, facing hurdles from recent tariffs that have made imports increasingly difficult.
The chefs recently encountered a setback when a Taiwanese beer they wanted for their opening weekend ceased shipping to the U.S. This led Masar on a quest across grocery stores to stock the last few cases, illustrating the lengths they will go to ensure authenticity in their offerings.
Navigating fluctuating prices has also its challenges. For instance, the imported Sichuan peppercorns and pickled mustard root that provide their wonton dumplings with distinct flavors have become more expensive. As a result, the duo often has to adjust their recipes when preferred soy sauce varieties or other ingredients fall out of reach.
Despite these obstacles, the decision to establish Pig and Tiger in Five Points was intentional and strategic. The corner unit they chose combines good parking with proximity to music venues and nightlife, positioning them well within the growing foodie culture of the area.
This thoughtful approach has paid off handsomely; families, food enthusiasts, and concertgoers alike are flooding into Pig and Tiger, showcasing its appeal beyond just a neighborhood eatery.
Chang emphasizes their desire not to be pigeonholed.
“We don’t want to be labeled just a neighborhood restaurant or a destination,” he explains. “We just want to be a fantastic restaurant people want to go to.”
The heart of Pig and Tiger lies at the intersections of Chang and Masar’s personal stories—from Chang’s cultural heritage to Masar’s evolving understanding of Taiwanese flavors and dining practices. The passion that unites them is clear in their shared vision.
Masar captures this sentiment beautifully when he says, “It’s all about making experiences. Whether it’s a gluten-free person being able to enjoy incredibly tasty and crispy fried chicken or introducing someone to a dish in a way they’ve never had it before, that’s what matters.”
Located at 2200 California St., Pig and Tiger promises an evolving menu that respects the past while looking forward, inviting diners to enjoy authentic Taiwanese flavors reimagined through an American lens.
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