USA Climbing has revealed ambitious plans for a national training center and headquarters in the heart of Salt Lake City’s Rio Grande District, marking a significant step for the sport’s development in the United States.
Located at 535 W. 300 South, the new facility is set to be a three-story building encompassing 106,685 square feet and will include both indoor and outdoor climbing walls, strength and conditioning equipment, and dedicated spaces for the national team’s training and physical therapy.
The project, which has been under discussion for several years, aims to be more than just a training hub for elite climbers. The center will also function as a commercial climbing gym when not in use for professional training. This strategy has generated apprehension within Salt Lake City’s climbing community.
In a design review application submitted to the city, USA Climbing’s project description highlights its intention to offer facilities for climbers at all levels, from beginners to seasoned athletes. The plan intimates a commitment to the community, promising year-round recreational opportunities.
The proposed facility’s design will also involve the adaptive reuse of the existing Salt Lake Mattress Company building. Plans for this structure include a café on the northern side and commercial space on the southern side, which will face the upcoming Market Street. The second floor is set to hold office spaces for USA Climbing.
An outdoor plaza is included in the design, providing spectator areas for competitive events, as well as space for city-hosted community events and festivals. This outdoor area aligns with Salt Lake City’s vision for enhancing the Rio Grande District, a move that aims to integrate the climbing culture into the urban fabric.
However, the proposal has not been without controversy. The local climbing community raised concerns over the potential impact this new facility might have on existing climbing gyms, particularly the nearby Front Climbing Club.
Critics argue that the commercial operations of USA Climbing could adversely affect the Front Climbing Club, which has benefited from city funding and support. In early January 2024, the Salt Lake City Redevelopment Agency put a pause on a $2 million loan intended for the Front climbing gym to further assess the situation.
By May 2024, the loan was reinstated, but discussions surrounding a development agreement with USA Climbing continued, highlighting the contentious nature of the project. Advocacy from the climbing community remains strong, with many fearing the USAC’s commercial ambitions could threaten local businesses.
As part of the review process, officials from both the Salt Lake City Planning Commission and the City Council will evaluate USA Climbing’s plans. A timeline for when these reviews will take place has yet to be announced, rendering the future of the project uncertain in the short term.
USA Climbing and the development team, led by Millcreek Consulting and Development with architectural design from VCBO Architecture, aim to break ground on the NTC within this year. They express a commitment to having the facility operational in time for the preparation of athletes heading to the Los Angeles 2028 Olympic Games.
As discussions continue, the Salt Lake community, particularly its climbing enthusiasts, watches closely, weighing the potential benefits of a national training center against the risks to locally cherished climbing informants.
The future of climbing in Salt Lake City stands at a crossroads, as advocates call for a balance between supporting elite athletics and nurturing the local climbing culture.
image source from:buildingsaltlake