Navigating the tumultuous waters of small business ownership during the pandemic has proven to be an arduous journey for many. Chef Lea Dennis, who operates her catering and private chef business in Barrio Logan, is no exception. Since launching Sugar Kiln, her line of small-batch cookies, in 2018, she has encountered numerous obstacles that have made running her business increasingly challenging, even after the peak of COVID-19.
From dealing with inflation fluctuations affecting her supply costs to property insurers withdrawing coverage in California and facing immigration-related pressures on her employees, the struggles have been real.
Despite these challenges, Dennis humorously affirms, “I could do something easier than this.”
So what keeps her baking? The answer, it turns out, lies in the joy she brings to others. For Dennis, being affectionately known as the “Cookie Lady” by her friends’ children holds its own special appeal. It’s a title she takes pride in, as it represents her ability to make desserts that people look forward to enjoying, rather than catering to an exclusive clientele.
Her business model allows her to reach a broader audience, which gives her immense fulfillment. With her cookies available in various San Diego locations such as Panama66, Gelato Vero, TNT Pizza, and Jacumba Hot Springs Hotel, she finds a unique satisfaction in seeing customers enjoy her creations.
Sugar Kiln specializes in baking and packaging six to eight different cookie flavors from her Barrio Logan kitchen, but one cookie stands out above the rest. Dennis’s “Oh My God cookie” has gained a reputation for its combination of browned butter, two types of chocolate, crunchy toffee, and a hint of finishing salt.
“It’s chewy, crunchy, crispy, textural,” she describes, noting its versatility has allowed her to collaborate with distilleries like Heaven Hill and WhistlePig, pairing the cookie with various whiskeys.
Another crowd pleaser is her vegan mazapán snickerdoodle. Its almond and vanilla bean dough, rolled in cinnamon sugar, results in a light, cake-like texture that delights everyone who tries it. Dennis notes that she’s hesitant to mention it’s vegan because it can deter some potential customers, despite its incredible taste.
Dennis emphasizes that the support from other small business owners and the local community has been crucial for Sugar Kiln’s survival. She fondly recalls how Jeff Motch and Clea Hantman, the proprietors of Panama66, were among the first to support her venture, believing in her brand. This spirit of collaboration continues to motivate her as she partners with other businesses aligned with a community-first mentality.
“I’m never going to be the cheapest,” she states confidently. “I’m never going to be the one who offers the most services or can get something to you overnight. But we would never have made it if someone was solely focused on the bottom line. The choice to support us means everything.”
With aspirations to expand her flavor offerings and eventually have Sugar Kiln cookies stocked in grocery stores, Dennis remains optimistic. Excitingly, her cookies will soon be included in every artist gift box at The Sound, a significant venue in the area, which thrills her immensely given her upbringing among musicians.
However, the ongoing struggles persist. Sudden insurance cancellations in the wake of wildfires and the flight of documented employees due to intimidation from immigration authorities often make her question her motivations for remaining in business. The answer, she affirms, lies in her desire to contribute to San Diego becoming a creative and tightly-knit community.
“If we don’t choose local creators, we’re going to lose businesses,” she warns. “Because nobody’s getting rich doing this—not even the Cookie Lady.”
For those eager to try Sugar Kiln cookies, they are available for nationwide shipping and local San Diego pickup through her website, sugarkiln.com.
As San Diego continues to evolve, new culinary establishments are also making their mark. Mia’s recently opened in Solana Beach, merging Mediterranean and Baja California cuisines. Specializing in locally sourced seafood and fire-roasted meats, Mia’s aims to provide a fresh dining experience, free from seed oils and filled with vegetarian and gluten-free options.
The restaurant, operated by the team behind Bluewater Grill, offers a menu that features favorites such as seared bluefin tuna, carne asada, and ancho-rubbed skirt steak. Diners looking for unique flavors will find the volcano tostada and mezcal margarita hard to resist.
In a moment of community solidarity, a recent tragedy has struck San Diego. Corey Willow, a chef at Wild Thyme Company, faced an unimaginable loss when three of his children were struck by a car while crossing the street. Tragically, his son Andrew did not survive. The community has rallied around the family, contributing to a GoFundMe campaign set up to assist them with funeral and medical expenses.
Amid the heartache, there is a silver lining for Lia’s Lumpia, a popular Filipino eatery in Barrio Logan. After a successful run, they have chosen to close their brick-and-mortar location to focus on catering, which has flourished in recent months. They plan to celebrate their transition with a “Dia De Los Muertos” event, offering patrons a final chance to enjoy their offerings.
In response to the ongoing government shutdown, Ming’s Revolving Sushi & Bar in Chula Vista is stepping in to support active-duty military personnel and their families by providing six free plates of sushi per visit. This initiative has already served over 2,500 plates, reinforcing the restaurant’s commitment to helping those in need during these uncertain times.
Lastly, the former Comedor Nishi location in La Jolla, which briefly wowed diners, won’t remain empty for long. The restaurant space has been taken over by the team behind Cazadores Mexican Food and Cotija’s Taco Shop, who are planning a new concept restaurant slated to open next year.
As the San Diego dining landscape continues to change, local creators like Lea Dennis and culinary establishments like Mia’s and Ming’s showcase the resilience and creativity that define the community.
image source from：sandiegomagazine
