Project Matcha, a new café located on NE Couch Street, has recently made waves in Portland’s beverage scene since its opening in May.
While many have been deterred by long lines and unexpected closures, the allure of this matcha-centric establishment has proven hard to resist for locals seeking a unique experience.
On a Wednesday morning, after seeing an Instagram story about the café opening late at 1 PM, I decided to navigate the line, only to find that around 50 others had the same idea.
Conversations buzzed among those waiting; one office worker pondered if the long queue was orchestrated for hype, while another customer debated whether the trend would last.
A diverse clientele filled the area, from senior citizens to families with young children, all eagerly anticipating the café’s matcha lattes and coconut cloud drinks advertised on social media.
As I stood in line for approximately 45 minutes, I overheard a customer enthusiastically discussing their favorite matcha spots and proclaiming, “Now this is here,” showing an impressive tolerance for the lengthy wait.
While matcha has been available in the U.S. for decades, from Häagen-Dazs flavors in the ’90s to celebrity endorsements in the 2010s, the recent spike in demand for matcha lattes has led to a wave of dedicated cafés across various cities.
However, this rising popularity brought about a global matcha shortage that has driven up prices, attracting even political attention when candidate Zohran Mamdani faced a question about the rising cost of matcha lattes during his campaign.
Portland’s matcha offerings are not entirely new, featuring traditional spots like Behind the Museum Café and Soro Soro, alongside popular chains like Matcha Cafe Maiko.
Yet, the emergence of matcha-specific cafés like Project Matcha and Yunomi fills a niche that has been largely overlooked—a demand for high-quality matcha drinks that feel innovative while retaining a connection to traditional practices.
During a visit to Project Matcha, I spoke with owners Purin Moungvang and Josh Pak just before the café opened, noting that multiple potential customers were eager to enter.
Moungvang explained, “Social media—the craze is crazy right now for matcha. Everyone’s just going insane for it,” highlighting how their venture aims to satisfy a gap in the local matcha scene.
Having both come from backgrounds outside of hospitality, they recognized a growing enthusiasm for matcha and a lack of dedicated facilities in Portland.
Moungvang added, “I love going to coffee shops, but [matcha] was always either like hit or miss. And most of the time it was miss.”
Indeed, many consumers have experienced disappointing matcha drinks that fail to highlight the tea’s true flavors, often resulting in overpriced concoctions.
But in recent years, local cafés like Bastion Coffee Roasters and Electrica have begun elevating the standard for matcha in Portland.
Bastion Coffee Roasters, which opened in 2022, has integrated matcha into its offerings, contributing to 40% of its sales, while Electrica has established its reputation by sourcing matcha directly from a producer in Kyoto, Japan.
Owner Seiji Nanbu noted that half of his café’s offerings are now matcha, while simultaneously acknowledging the challenges posed by the supply shortage that has affected quality and pricing.
As properties like “high-quality” and “ceremonial grade” flood the market, it complicates the perception of matcha’s quality, acknowledging a spectrum of flavors yet largely ignoring the nuances that serious connoisseurs pursue.
Looking to distinguish themselves, Moungvang and Pak have drawn inspiration from their visits to established matcha shops in Los Angeles and Seattle.
They noted how lengthy lines can be indicative of superior quality, stemming from the preparation method of whisking drinks individually, thus preserving flavors better than bulk amounts.
After sampling over 100 varieties of matcha to identify a perfect blend, Moungvang and Pak settled on a matcha that features a delicate balance of umami, pleasant bitterness, and minimal savory notes, sourced from a family farm in Wazuka.
Their journey took them to Kyoto, where they immersed themselves in traditional practices and renewed their passion for matcha culture, all while navigating the vibrant yet chaotic atmosphere of trendy café culture.
Moungvang expressed the challenge of fusing traditional elements with contemporary appeal, as individuals are increasingly drawn to visually appealing drinks without losing the heart of the tradition.
For shoppers and enthusiasts, visiting Project Matcha has become akin to the thrilling chase for limited-edition products in high-demand, adding a layer of excitement to the experience.
“Younger crowds, ages 18 to 30, are catching up on matcha,” Moungvang stated.
It’s clear that this is just the beginning of the matcha conversation in the United States, evolving in a way similar to early coffee culture discussions.
Moreover, even major corporations are taking notice; Starbucks have improved their matcha quality, and visibility, while chains like Dutch Bros are now venturing into the matcha market.
The rise of Project Matcha illustrates both the current fervor for this traditional Japanese tea and the innovation necessary to engage new audiences, thus securing its place in the local food and beverage landscape.
image source from：pdxmonthly
