In a culinary throwback to the mid-1800s, Philadelphia’s dining scene is witnessing the resurgence of a beloved classic: catfish and waffles. While the cheesesteak may have become synonymous with the city, it was the pairing of fried catfish and waffles that once ruled the regional palate.
Chef Angie Brown, culinary director at Rex at the Royal, is at the forefront of this revival, bringing attention to catfish and waffles with a sustainable twist — utilizing an invasive species as the key ingredient.
Historically known as the ‘Wissahickon Supper,’ this dish was a staple at various inns and roadhouses along the Schuylkill River. According to culinary historians, catfish and waffles were often accompanied by a side of hash and coffee, featuring a simple yet delightful preparation: battered and fried catfish served atop a thin waffle, sometimes enhanced with white sauce.
Some variations of the dish evolved into elaborate feasts, commencing with catfish and waffles, followed by steak and fried potatoes, stewed or broiled chicken, additional waffles, and coffee.
During its heyday, catfish were plentiful in local waters, to the extent that fishermen could reportedly catch upward of 3,000 in a single night near what is now East Falls. The abundance of catfish was so notable that even the name ‘Wissahickon’ derives from the Lenape language, meaning ‘catfish creek.’
However, as urbanization led to pollution and overfishing, paired with the impact of Prohibition on local taverns, catfish and waffles faded from the culinary consciousness of Philadelphia.
Today, as local waterways continue to face ecological threats, Rex at the Royal has ingeniously turned to the blue catfish — an invasive species threatening the Chesapeake Bay’s ecosystem — to curate their version of this historic dish.
Introduced to the area from the Mississippi River basin, blue catfish have been wreaking havoc on the local biodiversity, feeding on everything from blue crabs to striped bass. With no natural predators, their numbers have swelled uncontrollably, prompting ecological experts to advocate for eating them as a means of population control.
Samuels Seafood Co. is actively supporting this initiative, working alongside local producers and the Maryland Department of Agriculture to effectively manage the blue catfish population while sustaining the local fishing economy.
Incorporating blue catfish into their menu, Rex at the Royal served approximately 100 pounds of this invasive species during the summer, transforming it into a modern rendition of the Wissahickon Dinner.
Their dish features crispy fried catfish, tender and flaky, delicately layered over a cornbread waffle infused with corn custard, topped with trout roe, and finished with a drizzle of sage syrup.
Chef Brown emphasizes the necessity of channeling historical cuisines into contemporary dining experiences and hopes this renewed interest in the dish will evoke a sense of local culinary heritage.
She affirms that just as fashion evolves, so too does food; what delighted the palate in the 1800s holds value and relevance today.
As chef Brown continues to breathe new life into this historic staple, the community is invited to rediscover the intricacies of flavors that once held a special place in Philadelphia’s rich gastronomic tapestry.
The revival of catfish and waffles thus stands as a testament to both culinary innovation and ecological awareness, showcasing that old favorites can indeed find new life through sustainable practices.
image source from：phillymag
