Sunnyside, a neighborhood perched high above City College of San Francisco, is a unique spot where stairways and pocket gardens flourish. With each step taken through this hilly terrain, layers of the city’s rich history start to unfold, beckoning those willing to explore its charms.
Navigating the steep streets of Sunnyside can certainly be a workout, but a guided journey reveals ample rewards along the way. Along with experiencing some of San Francisco’s best public art located on the City College campus, visitors can also sample an increasing variety of refreshments as they stroll down Ocean Avenue.
To frame this exploration, it’s important to note that Sunnyside is situated on the southeastern side of Mount Davidson, which stands as the highest of San Francisco’s original seven hills, reaching an impressive height of 928 feet. The area is also a testament to the legacies of early urban planning in the city.
In 1891, the Sunnyside Land Company attempted to lay out a grid for development. However, the steep inclines of the region rendered several parcels unbuildable. Ultimately, the city acquired these lands and installed sewer pipes underneath, leaving them designated as open space.
Fast forward to the 1970s, under Mayor Joseph Alioto’s leadership, these lands transformed into charming pocket parks, contributing to the area’s picturesque reputation. Interestingly, urban activism played a critical role in preserving the neighborhood’s key features—it became a unique urban landscape rivaling the more famous stairways of Russian Hill and Telegraph Hill.
To kick off our tour, we’ll start at the Sunnyside Conservatory, an extraordinary Victorian-era octagonal building located on Monterey Boulevard, between Baden and Congo Streets. Just look up when you get to the middle of the block and you can’t miss the arching sign announcing this hidden gem.
Originally built in 1898 by British entrepreneur William Merrills, the conservatory was designed to house his private collection of plants, merging form and function by adopting an octagonal shape to optimize light exposure. Unfortunately, Merrills passed away in 1914, and his financial troubles led to a series of sales, ultimately leaving the conservatory’s status in jeopardy.
In 1975, however, it gained landmark status, but this designation didn’t save it entirely from the threat of demolition. After enduring some significant damage, local residents rallied to protect the space, resulting in the Recreation and Parks Department purchasing the property in 1980.
Though the conservatory does not currently serve the same role as the Conservatory of Flowers in Golden Gate Park, the surrounding landscape boasts various palm trees, ferns, bromeliads, and succulents, making it a lovely site for local events—like the 70th birthday party I visited. One attendee explained how she had no idea this oasis existed during her time in San Francisco in the 1970s.
There’s also a back entrance to the conservatory that provides visitors with a feeling of urban escape. Taking a plant-shaded path that circles the building leads to an intricately designed gate, opening onto Joost Avenue. As you exit, look to your left for a sign marking the Joost and Baden Mini Park, a unique pathway that divides the block.
This little park is easy to miss, yet it offers a delightful surprise. Along the path, visitors can find beautiful clusters of blue ceanothus amid colorful nasturtium, agapanthus, and marvel of Peru, enhancing the locale, even during San Francisco’s notorious gray summer days.
At the end of the mini park, stepping out onto Mangels Street, jog east toward Baden to discover another hidden gem: Dorothy Erskine Park. Established in 1979, this park is named after a cofounder of the Greenbelt Alliance, and features a fort made from tree branches right where Mayor Diane Feinstein and Erskine once dedicated the area.
Urban Hikes founder Alexandra Kenin describes this park as “flying under the radar.” With eucalyptus trees, simple dirt paths, and a modest patch of poppies, the park provides lovely views of the eastern side of the city, though it lacks extensive infrastructure.
Continuing our exploration, I take Martha Avenue down to watch the activity at Glen Park ball fields before navigating down Congo Street, steep enough to give me a brief vision of rappelling downwards. Fortunately, it’s a short descent, and I turn west onto Melrose Avenue, where another pocket of tranquility awaits: the Melrose/Detroit Botanical Garden.
This small oasis amidst the city’s fog is a welcome respite, featuring a clearly marked path leading to a picnic table and several benches. Visitors can pause to enjoy the delightful scents and sights of rosemary, flowering salvia, and other herbs from around the world.
After a short rest and a quick drink of water, I retrace my steps back to Congo Street for another half-block downhill stroll to Mangels, where I turn right toward Detroit Street to experience more of the community’s activism—the Detroit Steps.
Once a dilapidated public right-of-way, this area has been transformed through landscaping and the addition of a vibrant mural. The project began in 2018 and comprises two blocks and 185 steps, complete with a crossing at Monterey.
Taking a moment to pause midway, I turn around to admire the cascading colors of the mural before proceeding to the lower steps, which, while unpainted, offer a welcoming ambiance with strings of lights and lush gardens featuring palms, conifers, and blooming flowers. Exiting at Hearst Street, I find myself on a calm street where neighbors campaigned for two years to have city-installed speed bumps for safety.
As I walk, my attention is captured by a small unpaved lane just off Detroit, a remnant of the past marking where a tributary of Islais Creek once flowed. Now, this dirt alley showcases some community efforts amidst decay—discarded tires and weeds are mingled with a “Keep off the Grass” sign, punctuated by flourishing wildflowers like oxtongues, hawkbits, and sunflowers.
Now, it’s time to complete my ramble. I head west two blocks to Forester Street and turn left again. A right turn onto Judson Avenue causes the road to bend into Frida Kahlo Way, leading straight into the heart of City College, an institution nearing its 100th anniversary, with an artistic legacy that’s rich and diverse.
The roots of City College of San Francisco can be traced back to 1935, with its main campus opening in 1940, housing numerous significant pieces of public art. One of the most notable is the striking sculpture “St. Francis of the Guns,” crafted by Beniamino Bufano in 1969 from guns collected through a voluntary hand-in program. This piece occupies a prominent spot, framed by the oldest building on campus—Science Hall.
Accompanying this sculpture is the inscription, “The Truth Shall Make You Free,” which stretches across the entry of Science Hall. Within this building, visitors can find two ceiling-high mosaics dedicated to science and engineering, created by Swiss artist Herman Volz, during a period when public art flourished in San Francisco.
As I wander toward the back of the building, I come across an aged copper sundial, its surface turned aquamarine not far from a courtyard between Cloud Hall and Science Hall. If only the fog would lift, I could see the time it marks.
In this courtyard, more public art awaits, including busts of Leonardo Da Vinci and Thomas Edison sculpted by Frederick Olmsted Jr., who contributed to the WPA murals at Coit Tower and also carved murals for Science Hall that showcase students focused on scientific research.
Sadly, the most famous artwork housed at CCSF isn’t currently available for viewing; Diego Rivera’s mural “Pan American Unity,” a massive piece measuring 22 feet by 74 feet, is presently in storage. This monumental work, which weighs over 30 tons, was part of the Diego Rivera Theater from 1960 until 2022 and is set to re-emerge in 2027 at the new campus performing arts center.
As my excursion draws to a close, it’s a quick jaunt around the Balboa Reservoir—an extensively empty lot until recently, soon set to become a neighborhood with over 1,000 new homes. I make my way to Ocean Avenue, lined with an underrated assortment of shops, bars, and restaurants, with plenty of options to grab dinner or a relaxing drink.
Ultimately, I decide on Java on Ocean, a perfect little spot for a caffeine boost to wrap up my exploration of Sunnyside and City College. After wandering through the neighborhood’s hidden treasures and cultural landmarks, the flavors and energy of the area make for a satisfying conclusion to an invigorating day.
For those interested in discovering this unique part of San Francisco, starting at the Sunnyside Conservatory is a mere ten-minute walk west along Monterey Street from the Glen Park BART Station. Alternatively, the 43 Masonic, 36 Teresita, and 23 Monterey buses also provide access to this delightful area.
City College visitors can take the 43 Masonic route that travels down Frida Kahlo Way, or catch the 29 Sunset, 8 Bayshore, and K-Ingleside buses that converge along Frida Kahlo and Ocean Avenue. Don’t forget, Balboa Park BART is located conveniently close to the campus as well.
Whether you’re a local or a visitor, time spent wandering through the hills and parks of Sunnyside offers an intimate glimpse into San Francisco’s rich tapestry, filled with artistic expression, community spirit, and nature’s beauty.
image source from：thefrisc
