Adam Sindler and Mari Katsumura are set to launch SHŌ, a new omakase restaurant in Chicago that draws from a rich heritage of Japanese cuisine.
Both Sindler and Katsumura represent a legacy steeped in the history of Japanese dining in the city, with their families holding notable establishments since the 1960s.
Sindler’s family founded Kamehachi in 1967, which was Chicago’s first sushi bar and has played a significant role in popularizing Japanese cuisine.
Katsumura’s family established Yoshi’s Cafe in Lakeview, where Yoshi Katsumura creatively merged French and Japanese culinary traditions.
The restaurant remained a landmark on Halsted Street for nearly four decades, leaving a lasting impact on the local food scene.
As they gear up for the opening, Sindler has enlisted Katsumura as the chef at SHŌ, located at 1533 N. Wells Street—right next door to the original Kamehachi site.
SHŌ aims to debut on Tuesday, August 12, presenting a six- to eight-course omakase menu priced around $145, with additional supplemental dishes available.
While sushi will feature prominently, Sindler and Katsumura clarify that their offerings will go beyond just sushi, diversifying the traditional omakase experience.
In discussing the current state of Japanese cuisine in Chicago, both Sindler and Katsumura recognize that the Midwest often trails behind coastal cities in culinary innovation.
Katsumura notes that competing in this region is particularly challenging due to limited access to fresh seafood, which is a crucial component of Japanese culinary arts.
Furthermore, with a surge of omakase restaurants emerging recently, she points out that many lack leadership from genuine Japanese chefs or owners, suggesting a disconnect from authentic culinary practices.
Having grown up immersed in Japanese cuisine, Katsumura believes that her extensive experience provides a unique perspective that will be reflected in creative dishes.
Some of the menu highlights include a reimagined chawanmushi featuring truffled dashi custard, cauliflower foam, Osetra caviar, and shaved summer truffle.
Another exciting feature will be a build-your-own hand roll course, emulating a caviar service with diverse add-ons to personalize the dining experience.
Despite their deep-rooted connections to Japanese culture, both Sindler and Katsumura maintain an open-minded approach to their culinary expressions.
Sindler, who identifies as both Italian and Japanese, emphasizes the importance of respecting tradition while acknowledging that authenticity can vary widely.
Referencing Sushi by Scratch’s Phillip Frankland Lee, Sindler points out that the presentation of cuisine can come from various influences and backgrounds, allowing for a broader interpretation of cultural dishes.
At SHŌ, they plan to encapsulate their personal journey within their food, blending tradition with innovation to provide a unique dining experience.
Sindler has also designed the restaurant’s interior, incorporating elements of music into the ambiance, showcasing their shared cultural narrative.
Although he began working at Kamehachi washing dishes as a teenager, his journey included exploring art and music, both of which influence SHŌ’s aesthetic and culinary philosophy.
The restaurant aims not to present a progressive menu but rather a metaphorical mixtape, representing a blend of their backgrounds and culinary perspectives.
Sindler’s previous experience at the Alinea Group’s Roister and his return to the family business during the pandemic underscore his growth within the culinary realm.
While Kamehachi continues its operations, SHŌ’s opening signifies a generational shift in the culinary landscape.
The restaurant’s name, SHŌ, is derived from the Japanese word “keisho,” which symbolizes inheritance and the passing down of traditions, akin to a family passing down a katana through generations.
Sindler sees this symbolism as a powerful reflection of their shared heritage and culinary torch being passed from one generation to the next, encapsulated in just three letters.
image source from:chicago