South Philly Barbacoa has long been a staple in Philadelphia, known for its authentic Mexican tacos and the culinary expertise of chef Cristina Martinez, who has won a James Beard Award and received accolades from major food publications like Bon Appétit.
After a decade of serving the community, Miller, who was one of the co-founders alongside Martinez, has embarked on a new culinary adventure of his own with the opening of Koński Ząb Taco in Warsaw, Poland.
The name of the restaurant translates to Horse Tooth Taco, a clever nod to the type of dent corn used for making tortillas, which has large kernels and high starch content.
Miller’s journey to Poland to create this new taco shop is a tale of friendship and serendipity that dates back to the late ’90s.
During a summer trip to his father’s house, a 16-year-old Miller unexpectedly met a Polish young man named Paweł Fabis, who was living in the third-floor room of Miller’s father’s house.
The moment was a twist of fate, as both were surprised by the unexpected introduction. After a brief confusion, Miller invited Fabis to join him for a swim at the nearby Delaware River, forging a friendship that has lasted over two decades.
Both Miller and Fabis found their paths leading them into the restaurant industry, working together in various kitchens throughout Philadelphia. Their shared love for cooking kept their friendship strong even after Fabis returned to Poland.
In the years that followed, Miller and Martinez opened South Philly Barbacoa, which quickly garnered acclaim, while Fabis established multiple successful Italian restaurants in Poland. Their careers have intertwined, with honest conversations around food and shared experiences.
However, their paths diverged for some time until 2023, when fate played its hand again. Fabis attempted to reach Miller prior to his visit to Philadelphia but struggled to get in touch.
Eventually, Fabis walked into South Philly Barbacoa, hoping to see his long-time friend, but left disappointed when he didn’t recognize any familiar faces.
But serendipity struck again when Miller nearly hit Fabis with his truck while driving through Center City.
The two quickly caught up, where Fabis learned that Miller was no longer involved with South Philly Barbacoa, leading to discussions about a pop-up taco event in Warsaw at Fabis’s restaurant.
In February 2024, Miller executed a successful taco pop-up in Warsaw, which set the stage for what would become Koński Ząb Taco.
Originally, a permanent presence in Poland wasn’t in their plans, but during Miller’s time with Fabis, an opportunity arose when Fabis was offered a struggling pierogi spot that he could take over.
The concept for the barbacoa restaurant materialized quickly, with Miller eager to contribute his expertise in authentic Mexican cuisine.
Although neither chef has Mexican heritage, they are committed to delivering genuine Mexican flavors and handmade tortillas to Warsaw’s culinary scene.
Miller designed the restaurant with vibrant mosaic tiles and artwork, all while ensuring that they mill and create tortillas from scratch.
On the menu, traditional recipes from South Philly Barbacoa make a return, featuring dishes that include beef tacos, pancita, consommé, quesadillas, tamales, and vegetarian options. Fabis particularly recommends the pancita de borrego, a pork sausage made using lamb’s stomach and offal, as a must-try.
Adjusting to cooking in a European kitchen poses challenges, particularly in sourcing ingredients and equipment. Miller has had to experiment with substitutions, finding creative ways to replicate the authentic flavors he aims to deliver.
Finding fresh epazote proved difficult, prompting Miller to mix alternative herbs to achieve a similar taste.
Fabis’s local knowledge has been invaluable in navigating the markets for optimal ingredient sourcing, including good avocados at reasonable prices.
Currently, Koński Ząb Taco operates two days a week, with plans to expand as they gain experience and resources. Initially, the menu featured just a few items, but it has slowly evolved to include more offerings like chips and tamales.
Their long-term vision is to carve out a niche in Poland for high-quality tortillas and chips, with ambitions to develop a production line that enables them to package and sell their products on a larger scale.
Miller continues to split his time between Philadelphia and Warsaw, taking on the challenge of learning Polish while maintaining ties to his community engagement initiatives in Philadelphia.
He envisions returning to Philadelphia once Koński Ząb Taco is fully operational, but for now, he relishes the experience of introducing his food to a new audience in Poland.
“There’s a lot of people that live here and people that are interested in food,” Miller noted. “So to have something that’s very new and novel in the neighborhood, people are really curious to come and check out what it is.”
Miller finds joy in offering a fresh culinary experience to patrons who may be encountering authentic Mexican food for the first time, especially when they return with friends to share the experience.
With the combination of friendship, ambition, and a love for food driving them, Miller and Fabis are set on a culinary journey that bridges cultures and introduces an authentic taste of Mexico to a new market.
image source from：billypenn
