AJ’s Pit Bar-B-Q, once a Michelin Bib Gourmand in Colorado, faced a sudden closure in February 2024 due to tax issues with the Colorado Department of Revenue. This abrupt end to a celebrated eatery left many, including dedicated staff like Pitmaster Patrick Klaiber, searching for answers amidst the upheaval in Denver’s barbecue scene.
Despite the unfortunate closure of AJ’s, the story takes an exciting twist with the launch of Riot BBQ on June 5, 2024. This new establishment was brought to life by James Beard-nominated chef Manny Barella and the previous AJ’s team, including Klaiber and Caleb Benton. Barella’s vision for Riot BBQ is not only to honor the legacy of AJ’s but to elevate the culinary landscape of Denver through a mix of Texas-style barbecue and rich Mexican influences.
Riot BBQ is named in homage to the Park Hill Barbecue Riot of 1898, symbolizing a celebration of intersectionality and local history. The menu reflects a deep personal connection for Barella, offering a blend of barbecue that resonates with his cultural roots while mapping out a new narrative for the city’s culinary scene.
The restaurant serves smoked brisket, reaching tender perfection after 14 hours of cooking, alongside pork ribs prepared al pastor with a unique blend of chiles. This creative direction showcases the risk-taking ethos in defining barbecue as more than just a meal, making it a true cultural experience.
Riot’s culinary offerings also include slow-cooked pulled pork and a distinctive Wagyu Pastrami, setting the place apart in Denver’s crowded dining landscape. Traditional Texas sausage accompanies earthy smoked chorizo, and familiar sides like Pit Beans and potato salad remain staples, seamlessly connecting the old and the new dining experiences.
Additionally, Riot BBQ introduces exciting dishes such as cole slaw infused with Salsa Macha and pepitas and an Esquites Cornbread that combines traditional cornbread with the essence of Mexican street food. Each dish tells a story, intertwining culinary technique with cultural homage, and creating a sense of nostalgia that enriches the dining experience.
The reopening of Riot BBQ also signifies a commitment to continuity beyond food; the new team has reached out to former AJ’s staff to restore a sense of community and reliability. This effort aims to recapture the spirit that made AJ’s a favorite among barbecue lovers.
Chef Manny Barella, who spent considerable time at AJ’s learning the intricacies of barbecue, expresses a heartfelt desire not only to continue AJ’s legacy but to improve upon it. He places a strong emphasis on a ‘Bib or Bust’ philosophy, motivating the team to strive for Michelin recognition once again, acknowledging the collective effort in this culinary journey.
With the summer heat bearing down, Chef Barella is seen engaged in the daily rituals of barbecue preparation, conveying a sense of joy he feels working in this casual environment. His reflections highlight the rewarding experience of applying fine-dining techniques in a laid-back setting, fostering a deeper connection to the food and the community around it.
Riot BBQ’s dining area buzzes with energy, a testament to the restaurant’s immediate popularity in the community. Guests enjoy unique beverages like the Spicy Cucumber Margarita and Bourbon Peach Smash while savoring the distinct flavors of the menu.
In a city previously yearning for quality barbecue, Riot BBQ emerges as a must-visit destination this summer, breathing new life into a cherished culinary tradition. The intersection of culture, history, and innovative cuisine at Riot BBQ sets a remarkable stage for the future of Denver’s dining scene and leaves patrons eager for what comes next.
image source from：303magazine
