Zicra Lukin is on the cusp of opening her Jewish bakery, Babkush, located just off Southeast Hawthorne, as she embraces the trend of the sweet braided bread known as babka.
Though Lukin didn’t grow up with babka being a significant part of her family tradition, the pandemic reignited her interest in the treat.
Initially, the dry and unremarkable babka of her childhood did little to inspire her culinary journey, but during her quest for a hobby with her daughter, she discovered new ways to reinvent this classic pastry.
Eschewing her family’s recipes, Lukin began to craft her own unique flavors based on her tasting experiences.
Her excitement for the bakery grows as she aims for a November opening.
Since leasing a commercial kitchen from Cloudforest in April, she’s been actively engaging with the community through online orders and farmers markets.
She likens her venture to being part of a larger movement she calls the ‘babka renaissance,’ echoing the excitement surrounding the pastry in places like New York, where bakers have modernized the classic treat.
A pivotal figure in this babka revival is Uri Scheft, owner of Breads Bakery, who helped introduce a new version of babka to the culinary scene.
Today, modern interpretations of babka boast inventive flavors and fillings.
For example, at her bakery, Lukin serves seasonal creations like cinnamon walnut babka and apple, date, and cardamom babka, especially around Yom Kippur.
However, her specialty remains the rich chocolate babka, a classic filling that resonates with many.
Babka, which translates to ‘grandmother’ in Polish and Yiddish, originated in Eastern European Jewish communities, traditionally made with a sweet, braided yeast-leavened bread filled with chocolate, cinnamon, raisins, or jam.
Beyond babka, Babkush will also feature an array of other Jewish baked goods, such as chocolate rugelach—little crescent rolls drenched in honey simple syrup—and amaretti cookies that capture a traditional Italian flavor.
Current offerings at Babkush include flavors such as chocolate hazelnut, vanilla matcha, and halva date, with seasonal babkas and holiday-themed treats on rotation.
Lukin also plans to indulge in holiday baking, making sufganiyot for Hanukkah and hamantaschen for Purim, while integrating an array of cultural influences.
Among her special offerings is baba ta’mar, an Iraqi Jewish pastry featuring yeasted dough filled with date paste.
Her vision for Babkush extends beyond the kitchen, focusing on a broader representation of Jewish culinary traditions.
Reflecting on her journey into baking, Lukin recognized the need for diverse representation of Jewish food in the U.S.
She aims to weave in baking traditions from various Jewish communities around the world, enriching her bakery’s offerings.
Feedback from farmers markets has been overwhelmingly positive as customers, both connoisseurs and novices, get their first taste of babka and other traditional sweets.
Lukin hopes to continue catering to both audiences in her retail space while fostering a sense of community among customers.
Her commitment to social justice resonates through her bakery, as she incorporates her advocacy background into Babkush’s mission.
Having previously worked on gun violence prevention and social justice, Lukin believes that activism should be an intrinsic part of her food business.
To reflect her values, a portion of sales will be donated to mutual aid efforts directly supporting families in Gaza, emphasizing solidarity and speaking out against injustice as a priority.
“Palestinian solidarity is really important to me,” Lukin says, expressing her resolve to use her new venture as a platform for raising awareness.
Babkush’s social media actively promotes social justice initiatives, providing resources for the public to educate themselves and support relevant organizations.
Encouraged by a positive community response, Lukin intends to continue this focus when her business officially opens.
She invites the public to engage in discussions around Palestinian solidarity within Portland and beyond.
While waiting for Babkush’s grand opening, customers can place orders by messaging the Bakbush Instagram account or via an order form linked in the bio.
In addition, Lukin will have a presence at the Beaverton Farmers Market on Saturdays through the end of October, at the Hillsdale Farmers Market on Sundays through the end of October, and at the King Farmers Market on select dates in October and November.
Babkush Babkas are also available at Providore Fine Foods and Bread and Roses Market in Portland.
Through her blend of culinary creativity and social consciousness, Lukin’s Babkush bakery is poised to become a gathering hub for the Jewish community and a vibrant participant in the evolving food culture.
image source from：oregonlive
