The storied journey of Maui chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s signature dish can be traced back over three decades.
In the late 1980s, Matsuhisa, along with five other chefs, participated in a charity event at Haliʻimaile General Store located in Upcountry Maui.
After the event, the chefs were ready to kick back and enjoy a meal, leading Matsuhisa to creatively utilize leftover ingredients for a late-night snack.
He combined yellowtail, serrano chile peppers, cilantro, lemon, and garlic with a drizzle of soy sauce, resulting in a dish that melded the elements of ceviche and sashimi.
The other chefs were impressed, and after returning to his namesake restaurant in Los Angeles, Matsuhisa refined the idea into his now-iconic Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeño.
Fast forward to April 14, 2023, when the Grand Wailea Maui—A Waldorf Astoria Resort—celebrated the grand opening of the first Nobu restaurant on Maui and the second in Hawaiʻi.
This momentous occasion marked the conclusion of the luxury resort’s extensive $350 million renovation and renovation of its dining options.
Guests were treated to an extravagant opening ceremony, featuring traditional hula, fire dancing, and a lei ceremony, all highlighting the rich cultural tapestry of Hawaii.
The Nobu restaurant stretches over 13,000 square feet, positioned beachfront, and is led by executive chef Kyle Marston, who has distinguished experiences at both Matsuhisa Denver and Nobu London.
At this new location, diners will find a tantalizing blend of “Nobu style” dishes complemented by novel creations that embrace the fresh and vibrant ingredients of Hawaiʻi.
Gregorio Stephenson, Nobu’s corporate executive chef, stated, “We ingratiate ourselves in the community and we develop our dishes based on the city, the people, our clientele and the friendships we develop.”
He further emphasized their commitment to uphold high standards while exploring new culinary avenues influenced by the local culture.
Born in Japan, Nobuyuki “Nobu” Matsuhisa began his culinary career mastering the art of sushi in Tokyo.
His journey took him to Peru, where he pioneered a unique style by blending traditional Japanese cuisine with the bold flavors of Peruvian ingredients.
In 1987, he opened Matsuhisa in Los Angeles, where he caught the attention of actor Robert De Niro.
This connection would lead to a collaborative effort with De Niro and Hollywood producer Meir Teper to launch the first Nobu restaurant in New York City.
Together, this trio has expanded the Nobu brand to over 50 locations across five continents, with more than 70 Matsuhisa and Nobu restaurants now in operation worldwide.
One of Matsuhisa’s defining traits as a chef is his commitment to innovation within his dishes.
Examples of this are showcased in his White Fish Tiradito, which is a reimagined ceviche featuring paper-thin sashimi, yuzu and lemon juice, cilantro, and Rocoto chile paste, as well as in his famed Black Cod with Miso—a modern interpretation of Gindara Saikyo Yaki that features miso-marinated grilled cod topped with a miso yuzu sauce and apricot syrup.
Through his creative flair, Matsuhisa has inspired chefs around the globe to reconsider the potential of Japanese cuisine and has propelled the concept of culinary fusion into mainstream dining.
Hawaiʻi restaurateur Peter Merriman, recognized as a co-founder of the Hawaiʻi Regional Cuisine movement, recalls his first encounter with Matsuhisa 35 years ago at the original Matsuhisa in Los Angeles.
Following their meeting, Matsuhisa visited Hawaiʻi Island as a guest chef for a charity event at Merriman’s inaugural restaurant in Waimea, which sparked a long-lasting friendship between the two chefs.
Merriman describes Matsuhisa as “the ultimate crossover,” highlighting his mastery of classic Japanese cuisine while seamlessly integrating Western ingredients into his culinary creations.
He notes that the incorporation of chile peppers into Japanese cuisine was unknown until Matsuhisa showcased their remarkable potential.
Chef Chris Cosentino, acclaimed for his recent venture Koast restaurant in Maui, shares his experience as an unpaid intern in the Nobu kitchen in Tribeca, New York, during 1997.
He recalls being introduced to previously unfamiliar ingredients and learning innovative fish preparation techniques.
Cosentino credits Matsuhisa’s new style sashimi as a revolutionary moment, expressing how it significantly influenced their culinary education.
He praises Matsuhisa, highlighting his enduring relevance and the respect he commands due to his unwavering quality, consistency, and humility throughout his career.
The sophisticated ambiance of Nobu Grand Wailea matches the stature of its founder.
Renowned architecture and design firm, Rockwell Group, which has been designing Nobu establishments since the first Tribeca location, crafted an impressive, spacious restaurant with intimate indoor settings and a comfortable oceanfront lanai for dining.
The design features a 10-seat sushi counter, a lively cocktail bar, and a private dining room to enhance the overall dining experience.
To enrich the aesthetic, local artist Windy Chien created an exquisite 14-foot high, 233-foot-wide rope sculpture that elegantly wraps around the restaurant’s perimeter.
Chien, who has roots on Oʻahu, enlisted local Maui residents to assist in creating the piece, titled “Kua Nalu Hitching Post,” paying homage to the nearby ocean.
In Hawaiian, Kua Nalu translates to “cresting wave.”
Chien reflects on Nobu’s impact, stating, “Nobu raised the craft to its highest level.” She believes the common thread among craftspeople around the world is their appreciation for materials and commitment to craftsmanship.
Just two weeks after the illustrious opening of Nobu Grand Wailea, Matsuhisa debuted another Nobu location at the Hotel del Coronado in San Diego, demonstrating that at 76, his passion for cooking remains undiminished.
Matsuhisa expresses his dedication to his craft, stating, “To finish work means my passion is gone. I’m cooking all my life. I appreciate God, too, because I’m still working, keeping my health so that business keeps growing.
Thank you to my world. I like to see people happy. So, I will try my best every day.”
image source from：https://www.hawaiimagazine.com/nobu-grand-wailea-opens-on-maui/
