Canadians have a unique view of Portland’s food scene, particularly when it comes to the vibrant and innovative vegan cuisine that the city has to offer.
The recent documentary series, Evolving Vegan, has shed light on Portland’s culinary landscape, showcasing the diversity and creativity of plant-based dishes found throughout the Rose City.
Mena Massoud, the host and producer of Evolving Vegan, highlights Portland’s reputation as one of the best vegan cities in the world. “We found the epicenter of the plant-based food scene to be radically diverse in terms of ethnicity, flavor, style and cuisine,” he expresses, reflecting on his experiences in the city.
The first season of Evolving Vegan premiered on Peacock in May, with Portland featured in the second episode. In this episode, Massoud interviews Portland’s prominent chefs, including Jewan Manuel of Plant Based Papi, Cyrus Ichiza of Jade Rabbit, and Thuy Pham of Mama Đút. This documentary captures a unique time in the careers of these chefs as they navigate the post-pandemic culinary landscape in Portland.
“It was a very proud time to be a plant-based chef in Portland,” Manuel recalls, fondly reminiscing about his experiences in the city’s culinary community.
Since the filming, notable changes have occurred in these chefs’ careers. Manuel has transitioned from his former role at the downtown vegan restaurant Fortune, located in Sentinel hotel, to Dame on Northeast Killingsworth Street. Similarly, Jade Rabbit, which was previously known as Ichiza’s Kitchen, has found a new home on Southeast Belmont Street after an earlier tenure at Aimsir Distilling Company, which has since closed. Thuy Pham, once a prominent figure in the Portland restaurant scene, has shifted towards a nonprofit role with Growing Gardens and is currently working on a cookbook set for release in spring 2027.
The episode showcases a variety of Portland’s food scene, pointing out Collective Oregon Eateries and food carts like Gnarlys, Broken Rice, and Mama’s Peruvian Bowls, which are all part of the city’s culinary tapestry. Massoud emphasizes the vibrancy and innovation of the food. “There’s a risk-taking, almost avant-garde, punk-rock approach to cooking here,” he says, celebrating the city’s unique culinary identity.
The history of some key restaurants featured illustrates the evolving nature of Portland’s plant-based landscape. Manuel and Pham started their culinary journeys as neighbors on Southeast Morrison Street, where Plant Based Papi was located near the now-closed queer bar Crush. While Plant Based Papi has shifted to focus on Dame and private clients, Pham’s evolution from Mama Đút shows her dedication to both her culinary roots and community engagement.
Meanwhile, Ichiza has experienced a triumphant return with the reopening of Jade Rabbit’s Belmont location. After overcoming challenges with Aimsir Distilling, he now enjoys greater success than ever before in his new space. He shares, “It is the most business I’ve had in any of my iterations,” expressing gratitude for the community’s ongoing support.
One of the highlights from Massoud’s culinary adventure in Portland was visiting OTA Tofu, the oldest tofu company in the country. Moreover, his experience included foraging for chanterelle and lobster mushrooms near the scenic Oregon Coast with forager Elan Hagens, emphasizing the close-knit relationship between Portland’s nature and its food culture. “That was definitely a highlight of my trip,” he remarks, appreciating the connection between the natural landscape and Portland’s culinary authenticity.
The episode concludes with a special gathering of chefs, where Ichiza prepares mapo tofu for Massoud and his guests. Manuel describes it as “fantastic,” encapsulating the essence of what makes Portland’s food community so special: the camaraderie and connection fostered through shared meals.
Massoud hopes that Evolving Vegan serves not only as an educational journey through the restaurant industry but also as a source of inspiration for chefs and viewers alike. Given the notoriously high turnover rate in the culinary world, he aims to cement the legacies of the chefs featured in the series. Manuel underlines Pham’s significant growth, remarking, “She was able to align with her truest self and transition out of Mama Đút into something that’s even greater,” emphasizing the lessons learned through time and experience.
Overall, Evolving Vegan offers an insightful look into Portland’s dynamic food scene, presenting a diverse array of plant-based dishes while celebrating the chefs who contribute to its rich culinary landscape.
As the series continues to air, it seeks to honor these legacies and promote a shared love of food—a theme that resonates deeply within the Portland community. In a world that often brings rapid change, the relationships forged through shared meals remain a timeless connection between individuals and their culinary journeys.
image source from：wweek
