A new pizzeria, Edan Pizza, is set to open in downtown Portland, led by esteemed pizzaiolo Edan MacQuaid. Known for his exceptional culinary skills and experience in Washington D.C., Edan is keen to introduce his brand of pizza to this vibrant city.
Edan MacQuaid, a native of Corvallis, Oregon, has a rich history in the pizza-making field. He spent a portion of his youth in Maine and later moved back to Oregon after several years in the D.C. area. During our conversation, Edan shared insights into his journey.
“I went to high school in Maine,” Edan explained. “Maine is pretty boring for a teenager. So I had some friends from high school and we all moved to D.C. And then I was just there for many years.”
His foray into the pizza world began at the young age of 19 when he joined Pizzeria Paradiso in D.C. “I was working for Ruth Gresser, who’s a pretty awesome and amazing person, and a chef in her own right,” he said. This inaugural position would lay the groundwork for his future endeavors in pizza.
Following his time at Pizzeria Paradiso, Edan spent seven years at 2Amy’s, a well-regarded Neapolitan pizzeria. He also played a role in establishing Pizzeria Orso, where he oversaw the introduction of a traditional wood-burning oven from Naples, Italy. His experiences culminated in a brief stint at Range, working alongside Bryan Voltaggio, focusing on pizza offerings.
Speaking about his notoriety as a pizzaiolo, Edan remarked, “It’s pretty cool. It feels good!”
Edan Pizza: The Name Behind the Brand
The choice of name for his pizzeria, Edan Pizza, has a personal touch, as Edan explains: “It sounds kind of funny, kind of like ‘eating pizza.’ I’ve just been in the pizza business so long that it kind of made sense.”
He added, “When my family and I were trying to come up with a name, we just couldn’t really think of anything that was easier. And it was easy to get the domain name!”
A nostalgic memory also influenced the name—Edan recalls being teased with the phrase “eatin’ pizza” during his adolescence, which he found somewhat prophetic.
Alongside his wife Thea, Edan will manage the operations of Edan Pizza.
Creating a Unique Pizza Experience
When discussing his pizza style, Edan acknowledged his roots in Neapolitan cuisine but aims to carve out his own unique identity at Edan Pizza. “I’m just going to do my own thing this time, but it’s going to have a pretty heavy influence from classic Neapolitan stuff,” he said.
Edan is inheriting an EarthStone oven from the former MOD Pizza location in downtown Portland. Although he noted that the size of the oven presents challenges in heating it, he is producing quality pizzas that he believes will cook rapidly once the temperature reaches appropriate levels.
“Once I get it hot, it’s putting out some pretty nice pizzas…When I made one the other night, it took three minutes,” Edan shared.
On the subject of pizza char, Edan conveyed his preference for balance: “A little bit’s nice, but I don’t think a pizza should be covered in blisters. I try to get some nice leoparding on there,” a term he uses to describe the speckled char on authentically cooked pizzas.
Revamping the Space
The location for Edan Pizza was previously a MOD Pizza, which Edan found advantageous given the existing infrastructure. “We’re bootstrapping this one pretty hard,” he confessed. “We don’t have a lot of money, so we’re fortunate to have the infrastructure and the equipment that it came with.”
The renovations planned for the venue include painting and the addition of a new mixer, while maintaining the original layout without significant structural renovations. The design will allow for an open kitchen where diners can observe the pizza-making process from nearly every seat in the house.
Edan plans for a counter service model, allowing guests to order at the front and either have their name called or their order brought to them once prepared. “You’ll walk up, order, and then we’ll either holler your name or bring it out to you when it’s ready,” he explained.
Menu Highlights Beyond Pizza
While Edan is passionate about pizza, his menu will also feature a limited selection of salads. Options will include shaved fennel salad and blanched broccoli raab paired with vinaigrette, alongside a roast lamb sandwich with roasted vegetables, which he hopes to serve on housemade bread baked in the pizza oven.
“That’s hard to say” when asked about menu favorites, though he particularly highlighted “Ruth’s Pizza,” inspired by Ruth Gresser. It features San Marzano tomato puree, shaved garlic, marinated Sicilian capers, a generous topping of cheese, an egg baked in a well, and finished with grated bottarga, creating a bold flavor experience.
Beverages for Every Palate
Edan Pizza is also poised to apply for a Limited-On Premises liquor license, aiming to offer a selection of beer, wine, and cider. Edan envisions a lineup of quality beers alongside non-alcoholic drinks, ensuring a diverse beverage choice for customers.
A Perspective on Authenticity
During our dialogue, Edan shared his thoughts on authenticity within the realm of pizza. “I think I’ve put in the work to understand—just to me, really,” he reflected. He illustrated his longing to be able to craft pizza in the most traditional manner, reminiscent of historical practices.
While he acknowledges the debates surrounding authenticity—especially between Neapolitan and New York pizza advocates—he believes that the essence of good pizza transcends strict definitions. “So is it important? Probably after really obsessing about it for a long time, it’s probably not that important,” he concluded.
A Thriving Pizza Scene in Portland
Edan recognizes the vibrant pizza landscape in Portland, describing it as a great pizza town with numerous excellent pizzerias. “It’s humbling to be here as a pizza maker,” he noted, reflecting on the opportunity and challenge this presents.
Looking Forward to Edan Pizza’s Opening
Edan aims for Edan Pizza to open this month, initially operating Monday through Saturday with tentative expansion to Sundays as staffing allows. Lunch service will start at 11:30 am to cater to the area’s bustling lunch crowd, with a limited number of pizzas available until sold out, along with a potential closing time of 7 pm if demand allows.
Customers will have the option to choose between two pizza sizes—11-inch and 16-inch—to accommodate different appetites. With plans to welcome minors, Edan Pizza is designed to be a family-friendly venue.
What sets Edan Pizza apart? Edan points to their prime location as a significant advantage, stating, “We’re just going to make the best that we can and hope that we can just keep up with everybody else.”
Additionally, Edan’s 25-year-old son will be joining the operation, bringing his own love for pizza—undoubtedly a fitting addition to the family-run business.
As Edan, Thea, and the entire Edan Pizza team prepare for their grand opening, the community undoubtedly anticipates what this new addition will bring to downtown Portland’s culinary scene.
image source from：bridgetownbites
