The journey to Portland, Maine begins at the iconic Piscataqua River Bridge, marking the entry from New Hampshire. The weather captures the essence of coastal New England, with a cold, wet, and foggy atmosphere that creates a nostalgic charm.
For a native New Englander, the moment you cross into Maine, the call for a lobster roll becomes almost irresistible. The intoxicating aroma of the ocean and the sounds of seagulls serve as a reminder of home and the culinary delights that await.
This trip holds special significance; reflecting on childhood summers spent in Ogunquit and York, where delicious clam chowder and sweet corn were staples, Portland always seemed like a destination to explore later. Finally, the time had come to visit the city renowned for its vibrant food culture.
A short detour led to Bite into Maine, a popular food truck located in Fort Williams Park. The picturesque Portland Head Lighthouse provided the perfect backdrop as I enjoyed a lobster roll filled with the freshest seafood, generously topped with melted butter. Rain fell gently around me, adding to the quintessential Maine experience.
Portland has established itself as a top foodie destination in the United States. The bustling harbor brings in the day’s catch, supplying the numerous restaurants that are now commonplace in the city. Remarkably, there is one restaurant for every 200 residents, even before the influx of tourists during peak seasons.
Maine boasts the oldest organic state growers’ association in the country, and the Portland Farmers’ Market, which has been operational since 1768, showcases the best produce and ingredients from the state. Chefs and residents share a fondness for the diversity in flavors, with some local establishments offering unique cultural culinary experiences.
Dugan Murphy, who conducts Black History Walking Tours in Portland, highlights the city’s rich historical roots. Portland served as a significant location for the Abolitionist movement and was a stop on the Underground Railroad.
My home base for the stay was the Longfellow Hotel, nestled among the city’s Victorian mansions in the West End. Co-owner Tony DeLois, a fourth-generation Mainer, returned to his hometown after working in New York City’s restaurant scene. He, along with his brother Nate, aimed to create a modern and stylish hotel while honoring the historical essence of Portland.
As I entered the hotel lobby, I was immediately enveloped by an elegant blend of Parisian and Nordic design, complemented by Maine’s maritime history.
Adjacent to the Longfellow Hotel lies Tandem Coffee Roasters. The coffee shop bustles with local patrons, offering a cozy atmosphere perfect for breakfast. My culinary journey kicked off with banana bread adorned with toasted sesame seeds, cream cheese, olive oil, and black pepper.
Portland’s rise as a culinary hot spot can be traced back to the establishment of Fore Street in 1996 by Sam Hayward. His vision transformed Portland from a fishing town into a gastronomic destination. Food enthusiasts began to flock to the city, eager to experience the innovative farm-to-table dining culture.
Don Lindgren, owner of Rabelais: Fine Books on Food & Drink, recalls how Fore Street ignited a culinary renaissance in Portland. This shift allowed young chefs to hone their skills through apprenticeships before returning to Maine to redefine the culinary landscape.
Jake Stevens, chef-owner of Leeward, embodies this culinary evolution with his Italian dishes crafted from local ingredients. His recognition as a semifinalist in the James Beard Awards highlights the growing talent in the city. Here in Portland, the cost of opening a restaurant remains more reasonable compared to larger metropolitan areas, offering opportunities for culinary creativity.
The following morning led me to the Deering Center neighborhood where I met Atsuko Fujimoto, a James Beard Award winner at Norimoto Bakery. Her passion for baking has translated into a beautiful array of pastries that blend Japanese flavors with American techniques nurtured at Fore Street.
As we spoke, I indulged in a Danish pastry made with locally sourced butter and cranberries, followed by an inventive Chinese mooncake inspired by the gâteau basque—a fusion of flavors unique to Fujimoto.
With an abundance of pastries consumed, a leisurely walk around Back Cove was in order. The three-mile path offered stunning views that set the perfect tone for my dinner explorations later in the day.
My first stop was Calafia Cantina y Fonda, co-owned by Dominique Gonzalez. This newly opened restaurant draws inspiration from Baja California, merging Mexican flavors with New England seafood. The unique dishes, such as Jonah crab churros and a Maine bluefin tuna tostada, illustrate the culinary creativity present in the city.
Next on my culinary tour was Magissa, where co-owner Nancy Klosterides recommended the whipped ricotta adorned with rosemary, walnuts, and Greek honey. The Paros chicken, served with a mustard velouté, was equally impressive, and the vibrant atmosphere reminded me of a lively Greek taverna.
Completing the night’s dining itinerary was Twelve, nestled in Portland’s waterfront area. The restaurant, opened by Chef Colin Wyatt, who has a rich background in high-end dining, offers a new spin on fine dining that feels relaxed yet elegant. The brown-butter lobster roll presented on a croissant by the pastry chef was a highlight, alongside a delightful corn and blueberry ice cream sandwich dessert.
Just a short walk from the Longfellow Hotel, I discovered Burundi Star Coffee, run by André Nzeyimana and Jocelyne Kamikazi. The couple’s connection to coffee growing in Burundi made for an educational experience while enjoying their handcrafted beverages.
Later, I had the pleasure of chatting with Barak Olins in the West End at ZU Bakery. His dedication to creating a neighborhood bakery that serves freshly baked goods was evident, as we sat enjoying the sun and discussing his James Beard Award accomplishments.
Portland’s final meal was at Sur Lie, a tapas-focused restaurant that showcased locally sourced ingredients in imaginative dishes. A pan-seared Maine sea scallop followed by spaetzle with lamb ragù left me in culinary bliss—a fitting conclusion to my Portland adventure.
Looking back on my time there, Portland’s food culture impressively represents both its rich history and the modern culinary scene. With every bite, this city proves that it is not only a beautiful destination but a true haven for food lovers.
image source from：travelandleisure
