Portland’s culinary landscape is buzzing with excitement as several seafood-focused restaurant residencies have recently emerged, bringing fresh interpretations of Mexican mariscos to the city’s dining scene.
In the past, seafood aficionados had to travel to the suburbs east of Portland to indulge in authentic Mexican seafood offerings. However, the summer of 2023 marked a vibrant shift, with local chefs showcasing their innovative takes on seafood through these temporary establishments.
Among the newcomers is El Viejon at Brujos, founded by Eldy Prado. His journey started with a single food cart, which has now evolved into a small empire of taquerias, primarily operating at various breweries. At Brujos Brewing, Prado’s residency features a menu that highlights traditional flavors and ingredients, especially shrimp-based dishes.
The standout item on El Viejon’s menu is the massive shrimp coctel, priced at $24. Served in a glass that could double as a bowling ball, it’s a delightful mix of chopped cucumber, red onion, and shrimp, accompanied by tostadas and Saltine crackers.
For those who enjoy layered flavors, the shrimp mix tostada costs $12 and combines shrimp aguachile with a longer-marinated ceviche and avocado on a dark corn tostada. The menu doesn’t stop there, offering tacos stuffed with grilled fish options and a unique gobernador taco-quesadilla hybrid for just $6.50.
Despite the tucked-away location of Brujos in industrial Northwest Portland, a busy lunchtime crowd speaks to the popularity of El Viejon. Diners had ample opportunity to appreciate the brewery’s offerings, such as their Cirice Pilsner, while waiting for the food.
El Viejon is open daily from noon to 9 p.m., offering a treasure trove of traditional seafood flavors at 2377 N.W. Wilson St.
Another exciting addition to the scene is Mariscos con Onda, led by chef Adán Fausto. Fausto boasts an impressive resume, having worked in Michelin-starred restaurants as well as serving as a private chef to tech moguls.
Located on the back patio of the Kimpton RiverPlace Hotel, Fausto’s pop-up is characterized by vibrant seafood dishes that blend creativity with fun. Highlights include grilled oysters topped with chorizo butter and a squid-ink ceviche that comes garnished with powdered spirulina on a blue corn tostada.
The Baja Sashimi, priced at $23, is not to be missed, presenting slices of fresh seafood garnished with unique ingredients blooming with flavor and color. Although a more enticing cocktail menu could enhance the dining experience, the existing options still complement the bright atmosphere of the waterfront setting.
Mariscos con Onda operates its dinner service from 4 to 10 p.m. on most Thursdays through Sundays at 1510 S. Harbor Way, just a short distance from the hotel.
Lastly, the under-the-radar Metlapil at Che draws attention with its distinctively crafted seafood dishes that challenge the status quo. Chef Jose “Lalo” Camarena and his partner, pastry chef Kautia Camarena, create a menu that features innovative interpretations of seafood classics while showcasing heirloom ingredients.
One highlight is a tostada topped with whole anchovies, which takes a refreshing departure from traditional toppings. The dish marries flavors with layers of whipped tofu and cucumber, providing a unique tasting experience.
Other standout items include whole fried bay shrimp served with a spicy chile morita mayo that encourages diners to dive in, heads and all. Camarena’s dishes often combine artistic composition with playful flavors, ensuring diners are treated to both visual beauty and taste.
Metlapil emphasizes traditional methods, such as hand-ground masa for tortillas, which elevates the quality of their dishes. While some dishes may flirt with ambition at the expense of execution, the experience is never lacking in creativity.
The restaurant serves its a la carte menu from 5 to 9 p.m. on Thursdays and Sundays, along with a ticketed supper club on Fridays and Saturdays. Late-night service on Sundays offers a unique opportunity for patrons to enjoy dinner and karaoke amidst a lively atmosphere.
Metlapil can be found at the events space Che, located at 920 N.E. Glisan St., where the focus remains on pushing culinary boundaries.
As the summer continues, these three pop-ups stand out among Portland’s burgeoning seafood scene, each offering a distinct voice and set of flavors that reflect the city’s culinary diversity.
Whether you’re in the mood for a traditional shrimp cocktail or are seeking out innovative twists on seafood staples, the city’s seafood pop-ups have become a go-to destination for enthusiasts eager to delight in these vibrant and creative offerings.
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