The mouth of the San Lorenzo River in Santa Cruz, California, has long been known for its challenging surf conditions. With its rocks, pollution, and swift currents, it has become precarious for surfers almost year-round.
However, prior to the mid-1960s and the construction of a harbor that dramatically altered the area, this location was a surfer’s paradise, characterized by easy and consistent swells.
Cultural historian Geoffrey Dunn recalls, “They looked very much like the breakers in Honolulu,” highlighting the nostalgic connection to Hawaii.
In 1885, three teenage members of Hawaii’s royal family made waves by introducing a sport known as “surfboard swimming” to a curious American audience.
Dunn describes this moment as significant, stating, “It was a royal sport. They were part of that tradition in Honolulu,” reflecting the sport’s rich heritage.
Despite its historic significance, many Americans remain unaware of how surfing made its debut on the mainland over 140 years ago.
To shed light on this overlooked history, a new exhibition at the Santa Cruz Museum of Art and History seeks to educate visitors about the Hawaiian roots of surfing.
Dunn emphasizes the importance of recognizing the contributions of the Hawaiians, stating, “The seed of surfing in the Americas was the result of these Hawaiians who brought it here.”
The Hawaiian royal family sent siblings David Kawānanakoa, Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole, and Edward Keliʻiahonui to St. Matthew’s Military School in San Mateo County to prepare for their futures as modern rulers.
Dunn notes this was part of a broader trend of globalization and trade as people from around the world flocked to Hawaii in the 19th century.
Growing up on the islands, the princes were accustomed to riding waves on traditional surfboards made from native Hawaiian woods like ulu and koa.
Once they arrived in California, they began crafting surfboards from local redwood, with Dunn pointing out that these replicas are showcased alongside boards representing the sport’s historical evolution at the exhibition.
He explains, “They probably weigh eight times more than current surfboards at least,” adding that the princes’ boards were twice the length of modern surfboards and lacked stabilizing fins, making surfing considerably more difficult.
In California, the brothers created a sensation. A July 20, 1885, article from the Santa Cruz Surf detailed their activities, stating, “The young Hawaiian princes were in the water, enjoying it hugely and giving interesting exhibitions of surfboard swimming as practiced in their native islands.”
Their exhibitions left a significant mark on the local community, as evidenced by a notice in the Santa Cruz Surf eleven years later.
On July 23, 1896, the publication pointed out that local boys had begun to emulate the Hawaiians, using surfboards to ride the waves at Seabright Beach, a popular spot in Santa Cruz.
The influences of the Hawaiian princes didn’t stop in California. Brian Keaulana, a well-known name in the Hawaiian surfing community and producer of the Apple TV+ series Chief of War, reflects on the lasting legacy of this event.
He noted, “The story about the three princes is a famous story in our culture,” underscoring the importance of their acts of “surf diplomacy.”
Keaulana explains that while surfing began to gain traction in the U.S. in the early 20th century, it was largely popularized by Hawaiian swimming champion and surfer Duke Kahanamoku.
However, he emphasizes that the royal brothers’ visit to California served as a crucial precursor to the sport’s rise in popularity, benefiting not just Americans but also those in Hawaii.
“They came back with redwood boards,” Keaulana noted, adding that this new surfboard technology eventually gained popularity back in Hawaii, establishing redwood as the dominant material for surfboards in the islands in the first half of the 20th century.
It is fascinating how the history of surfing, both in California and Hawaii, remains intertwined, with innovations and traditions being passed down over generations.
The Santa Cruz Museum of Art and History’s exhibition invites visitors to acknowledge and celebrate the rich heritage of surfing as a royal sport that traveled from Hawaii to California, igniting a passion for the waves that endures today.
image source from：npr
