In the heart of Chinatown, Los Angeles, the culinary landscape has welcomed David Chang’s Majordomo, which has recently launched an enticing three-course dinner menu for $64.
The opportunity to taste Chang’s signature approach to food, blending Korean, French, and American influences, was irresistible, especially as the dining experience promised to be affordable and high-quality.
As an admirer of Chang’s work over the years, from his impact on modern cuisine to his contributions that brought Korean flavors into the mainstream, visiting Majordomo felt like an essential pilgrimage.
Despite my initial hesitations about Chang’s move to Los Angeles and the subsequent perception of his cuisine as becoming normcore, I was eager to dive back into the experience.
Majordomo’s somewhat hidden location, behind a series of buildings facing the Historic State Park along Spring Street, sets a mysterious tone that adds to the allure of the dining experience.
Upon entering, I was greeted by a team dedicated to providing impeccable service, making an effort to offer a slice of nostalgia with copies of Lucky Peach, the food magazine that has significantly influenced my journey as a food writer.
The dining adventure began with an array of flavors on the three-course menu, featuring steak frites, hamachi crudo, and a mixed leaf salad, which surprisingly did not include a dessert.
While the combination of Japanese and French cuisine showcased by Chang once felt innovative, it now seemed a bit conventional, reflecting how far the culinary landscape has evolved.
In an effort to hedge against any potential hunger during the meal, I opted to augment my order with a bing, a hybrid flatbread that cost an additional $12.
The first course brought out three generous slices of hamachi crudo—a stunning display of fresh yellowtail tuna gently bathed in ponzu, complemented by chive accents.
The refreshing flavors and buttery texture highlighted the skill and creativity that Majordomo is known for, offering a delightful start to the evening.
Next, the bing arrived, and I selected the eggplant version, which featured a fluffy, crepe-like texture enveloping a luxurious eggplant spread.
This dish was an immediate hit, as I found myself happily devouring it at an alarming pace, proving to be a tasty addition to the meal.
However, the mixed leaf salad that arrived shortly thereafter felt somewhat lackluster, lacking the vibrancy one might expect from a California culinary experience.
Although the palm sugar vinaigrette offered moments of thoughtful flavor, I couldn’t help but wonder about the exclusion of more seasonal produce to elevate this dish.
Finally, the highly anticipated steak frites made their grand entrance. The hanger steak, properly charred on the outside and juicy within, proved to be a highlight of the meal.
Accompanied by B.S. fries—a nod to podcaster Bill Simmons—these triple-fried treats were deliciously crispy but served at a scalding temperature, leading to an unexpected burn on the first bite.
Despite the momentary discomfort, the fries paired perfectly with a rich béarnaise sauce, adding an extra dimension to the meal.
In evaluating the overall experience, I found it quite enjoyable and well worth the value, even if my ambivalence toward the salad persisted.
The waiter’s suggestion to add the bing may have detracted from the overall satisfaction, as the three-course menu itself was fulfilling enough.
The evening offered the essence of a culinary journey, akin to meeting a long-admired celebrity in person. While impressive, the experience wasn’t entirely as I had once imagined it.
Recognizing this, I felt encouraged to revisit Majordomo with an open mind, perhaps in the company of friends, to embrace a broader selection of family-style dishes.
In conclusion, David Chang’s Majordomo stands not just as a restaurant but as a reflection of evolving tastes and experiences, revealing both the richness of his innovative culinary style and the shifts in modern dining culture.
image source from：laist
