The past year marked notable openings in Atlanta’s vibrant dining scene, including Commune in Avondale Estates and Marietta Proper in Marietta Square, which gained recognition as a James Beard Award semifinalist in the Best New Bar category.
Both establishments emphasize a significant focus on wine, reflecting a growing interest among metro Atlanta diners in high-quality offerings from smaller producers despite the general unease surrounding the wine industry.
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution (AJC) reported insights from industry professionals indicating a divide between the prevalent negative narratives in the wine market and the emerging optimism observed in local restaurants.
While the larger global wineries face challenges, many believe that smaller producers are finding opportunities for growth.
Perrine Prieur Gallardo, the owner of Perrine’s Wine, which features three locations in the Atlanta metro area, noted that industrial-level wineries are experiencing the brunt of economic setbacks.
She remarked that the shifting preferences of consumers have compelled major wine producers to rethink their strategies, with a notable example being E&J Gallo’s acquisitions of smaller wineries across the globe.
Gallardo, a certified sommelier, explained, “They are buying smaller wineries now. I’ve seen it in France and Italy; they’re actually focusing on family estates. They keep the name and just enlarge their portfolio.”
In a similar vein, Kelly Travis, who manages wine brands at Eagle Rock Distributing Company, highlighted a growing trend among younger generations prioritizing wine quality over mere volume.
Travis emphasized, “You want to know what they’re putting in your wine, if it’s natural, if it’s organic, if it’s sulfite-free. And you want that romance, you want that connection.”
Eagle Rock has experienced growth predominantly through partnerships with smaller producers, indicating a market shift toward unique wines rather than generic labels.
The emotional connection to wine is vital, as Gallardo remarked, “Wine comes from people. It’s a farm product; they’re farmers first. They care about how they work the land and aim to pass their knowledge and heritage to future generations.”
While concerns regarding tariffs and trade uncertainties loom over the wine industry, it’s critical to note that these challenges are not new. The U.S. imposed a 25% tariff on non-sparkling wines from several countries back in 2019, during the presidency of Donald Trump.
According to Carson Demmond, the owner of Rive Gauche Wine Company in Stone Mountain, participants in the wine market appear to be more equipped to handle potential tariffs this time around.
Demmond stated that wineries and freight forwarders are currently offering discounts to mitigate stress along the supply chain, suggesting a proactive approach to addressing these economic pressures.
Travis also confirmed similar strategies among Eagle Rock’s importers, who are negotiating lower margins to alleviate the impending cost burdens rather than merely transferring them to consumers.
Experts within the industry are viewing these tariffs as temporary setbacks rather than irreversible transformations in the market landscape.
Despite the fluctuations, the U.S. wine industry remains robust, with consumption reaching nearly 900 million gallons in 2023, according to the California Wine Institute.
Total wine sales in the country surpassed $106 billion, showcasing the predominant role wine plays in American culture.
Both Gallardo and Travis expressed confidence in the ongoing growth of the sector, particularly among consumers interested in smaller, artisanal wine labels.
Gallardo pointed out, “There’s a lot more awareness of wine and there are a lot more wine professionals than 15 years ago in this city.”
These insights reflect a promising trajectory for Atlanta’s wine scene, suggesting that as the industry adapts to current challenges, especially through the embrace of smaller producers, the appetite for quality wine among local diners continues to flourish.
image source from：https://www.ajc.com/food-and-dining/many-new-wine-bars-are-popping-up-in-atlanta-despite-wine-industry-woes/QOCUUWEB4JESDGW4NLKKU6R7OA/
