Eddie Huang, known for his dynamic approach to cooking and his cultural explorations, has embarked on a fresh culinary journey that marries his Chinese heritage with Mediterranean influences.
After spending time in Taiwan and Los Angeles, Huang has returned to New York City. Here, he is not just revisiting his culinary roots but is also stepping into new territory as a podcast host alongside his wife, Natashia Blanca.
Huang’s latest venture comes with the launch of a summer pop-up restaurant named Gazebo, located at the Flower Shop on Eldridge Street. This new culinary project transforms how he approaches classic Chinese recipes by incorporating olive oil, a staple sent by Blanca’s family from their olive harvest in Greece.
At Gazebo, Huang aims to showcase a unique blend of flavors that reflects his journey and culinary evolution. He found himself with a large container of olive oil, which led him to creatively adapt traditional Chinese cooking methods to accommodate the oil’s lower smoke point.
Huang explains that this transformation involved rethinking the way he prepares familiar dishes. He has developed innovative cooking techniques, like using binchotan charcoal to crisp Iberico pork before lightly frying it in olive oil along with cured tofu and peppers, a departure from the high-heat methods typically associated with Chinese cuisine.
Until recently, Huang reserved this modern cooking style for intimate family meals with Blanca and their young son, Senna. But with the opening of Gazebo, he is ready to present his new culinary philosophy to a wider audience.
Meeting up with Huang during the preparations for his pop-up, I observed him wearing his signature jade Buddha chain and a cap adorned with various watch brands. He was actively engaged in the hustle of the kitchen, working alongside the Flower Shop’s regular staff to prepare for the night’s service.
One of the standout dishes I had the pleasure of sampling was skate wing, first grilled before being simmered in a vibrant chile and mustard-green sauce, drawing inspiration from a Sichuan-style dish known as sauerkraut fish. Though skate wing might not be traditional fare in Chengdu, Huang noted, “I really like it as the canvas for this type of preparation.”
The idea for Gazebo sprouted from Huang’s recent encounter with the Flower Shop’s owner, Dylan Hales. The two met through a mutual friend while Huang was searching for a space to record their podcast. Hales, who boasts an unmistakable style with his metal jewelry and casual attire, was enthusiastic about the potential for collaboration after Huang praised the quality of the food served at the Flower Shop.
“It’s actually very, very good,” Huang remarked, impressed by the existing kitchen setup. Hales reiterated this sentiment, highlighting that Gazebo is the most comprehensive and reflective culinary endeavor they have undertaken together.
Not all of Huang’s culinary creations involve cooking; for example, I enjoyed a dish featuring scallops served in a unique leche de tigre, a Peruvian sauce that included red onion, lime, and scotch bonnet pepper. The dish was further enhanced with Marcona almonds, providing a delightful roasted flavor.
Moreover, Huang has introduced a quesadilla, crafted with two corn tortillas filled with pork and cherrystone clams. This simple yet flavorful bar snack reflects a significant shift from his previous culinary style.
Huang’s previous venture, Baohaus, remained operational until October 2020, but by that time, he had gained widespread recognition for his television appearances and his memoir, Fresh Off the Boat, which later inspired an ABC series.
Following the closure of Baohaus, Huang traveled to Taiwan in 2020 and eventually settled in Los Angeles, where he found time to start a family and focus on his film, Boogie, released in 2021.
While the essence of Gazebo inherently leans towards Chinese cuisine, Huang is excited to infuse his menu with an eclectic mix of influences. He notes that the dishes are informed by over a decade of global travel and his experiences with various chefs.
For instance, the scallop dish reflects an inspiration drawn from renowned ceviche expert Javier Wong, which Huang tasted while filming Huang’s World in Peru. Similarly, the quesadilla is a creative spin on a snack he prepared for his son using leftovers from his recipe testing.
One of the final dishes I sampled was Huang’s Taiwanese beef noodle soup, which stood out for its crystalline, mildly spiced broth and strips of braised wagyu strip loin served over spaghetti. Huangs experimental spin on traditional Taiwanese beef noodle soup was born during his last visit to Taiwan, where he discovered a love for the texture of spaghetti.
With Gazebo, Eddie Huang is not only cooking up food; he is also reshaping culinary narratives and inviting diners to join him on his innovative journey.
image source from：https://www.grubstreet.com/article/eddie-huang-opens-gazebo-nyc.html
