In Chicago, the resurgence of bagels is taking the culinary scene by storm, evoking nostalgia for the popular pastry craze of the 1990s, yet showcasing a fresh and artisanal twist.
Felix Zepeda, owner of Rosca bakery, explains the evolution of the bagel, stating, “We’re baking something different now,” emphasizing the personal touch that distinguishes today’s offerings from the mass-produced products of decades past.
Zepeda describes the current bagel boom not as a mere repetition of the past, but rather a reinvention deeply rooted in craftsmanship and cultural narrative. Working out of his Pilsen kitchen, he crafts bagels with meticulous care, focusing on small batches and high-quality ingredients.
The contemporary bagel phenomenon in Chicago mirrors a larger trend in dining: a shift towards local, artisanal food that prioritizes process and authenticity over convenience and uniformity.
As of June 4, Chicago’s culinary landscape boasts 21 active business licenses featuring the word ‘bagel.’ New establishments like Zeitlin’s Delicatessen and H&H Bagels represent this move towards local craftsmanship.
Zeitlin’s, a brother-owned establishment, has recently made its home in Lincoln Park after a successful run of pop-up events, while H&H Bagels, a beloved New York institution, has opened its doors in Fulton Market, captivating fans with its storied history.
Similarly, Beachwater Bagels by Middle Brow operates as a weekend pop-up in Logan Square, where its twice-baked sourdough bagels and creative spreads attract eager customers.
Tilly’s Bagel Shop, known for its “Chicago-style” bagels, has quickly become a favorite at its locations in South Loop and Fulton Market, blending classic and innovative flavors.
El Bagelero, which now occupies the space previously held by Little Lazo’s Latin Cafe in Bucktown, adds to the array of vibrant options.
Zepeda reflects, “The ’90s were about scaling up — chains, convenience and uniformity. This current boom feels more personal, more artisan.”
This mindset resonates deeply with consumers, who now seek that intimate connection to their food.
The pandemic, with its unique challenges and opportunities, played an instrumental role in reigniting interest in traditional baking practices. Many found solace and purpose in baking, as Zepeda notes, discovering the joy of creating bagels from scratch.
“People are craving more intention in what they eat,” he explains, revealing a demand for flavors, nostalgia, and a personal story behind every meal.
With local bakers focusing on fermentation processes and regional ingredients, the new generation of bagels moves beyond the classic New York style. Instead, they embrace innovation, drawing inspiration from diverse cultures and culinary practices.
Mike Banaszak, co-owner of Tilly’s Bagel Shop, also expressed dissatisfaction with the previous bagel landscape, remarking that it felt “rather stale” when he and his partner entered the scene.
Thus, they took it upon themselves to create a brand that reflected their ideals of authenticity and quality. Banaszak emphasizes, “We are not a franchise, we have no outside investors; it is just our team, our bagels, and the customers.”
Their commitment to quality over profit illustrates a refreshing departure from larger chains that prioritize mass production. Tillett, also co-owner at Tilly’s, observes an exciting increase in creative local bagel options, noting non-traditional flavors and preparations like sourdough bagels become increasingly popular.
For those who may not remember the ’90s, the bagel boom in Chicago began in the mid-1980s, with the roots of this craze traceable to the suburban Naperville, where Paul Stolzer founded Big Apple Bagels. At a time when bagels were mainly East Coast phenomena, Stolzer’s opening transformed perceptions, helping to popularize bagels nationwide.
As he began to train aspiring bagel makers, Chicago’s bagel scene exploded, leading to a vast array of shops showcasing this formerly niche product.
By 1995, grocery store bagel sales in the U.S. hit an impressive $466 million, marking a significant increase from the previous year.
However, as the bagel gained mainstream popularity through extensive commercialization, concerns regarding authenticity emerged, leading to a decline in interest by the late ’90s.
Steve Lubet, a Tribune columnist, highlighted issues with the “inauthentic” nature of bagels found in chains and how they diverged from traditional flavors and textures, suggesting a loss of ethnic identity in the pursuit of profit.
The bagel market, laden with competition and waning interest, saw major chains face significant financial setbacks, leading to closures and a reducing number of shops.
Yet, the current generation of Chicago bagel makers is not only reviving the bagel market but also evolving it into a more artisanal and culturally rich experience.
Zepeda’s approach at Rosca embodies this philosophy: he mills his own flour and emphasizes a fermentation process that sets his bagels apart from the homogenized options of the past.
He states, “Every bagel feels like an experience worth slowing down for,” a testament to his belief that food should not only satisfy but also connect individuals to deeper narratives through taste.
Banaszak shares this passion, describing Chicago as a city rich with opportunities for culinary innovation. Tilly’s Bagel Shop’s Chicago-style bagel is a product of this ethos, alongside a rotating selection of unique flavors and toppings that reflect ongoing experimentation in the kitchen.
Tillett is hopeful, too, claiming that, with time, the Chicago-style bagel could become a symbol of the city’s diverse food culture, joining the ranks of proud Chicago staples like pizza and hot dogs.
In contrast to the chains of the ’90s, today’s bagel producers emphasize authenticity and creativity. Banaszak argues that focusing on delivering the best version of their product ensures long-term success.
Zepeda encapsulates this sentiment with three guiding principles for lasting appeal: “consistency, heart, and connection,” emphasizing the importance of taste in tandem with a compelling story behind each bagel.
As Chicago’s bagel scene continues to flourish, it represents not only a culinary revival but also a deeper engagement with local traditions, flavors, and the stories that shape them.
By uniting craftsmanship with community, today’s bakers are ensuring that the humble bagel will remain a beloved staple of the Chicago food landscape for years to come.
image source from：https://blockclubchicago.org/2025/06/09/is-chicagos-bagel-boom-back-you-butter-believe-it/
