In the heart of downtown Portland, nestled near the Ritz-Carlton, lies Hamono Sushi, a restaurant that has recently gained attention for its unique all-you-can-eat sushi option.
Open for four years, Hamono Sushi only began offering this enticing format a year ago, providing patrons with the chance to indulge in unlimited rounds of premium nigiri for a flat rate of $100 per person.
This departure from the traditional all-you-can-eat buffet experience may surprise many, especially those with nostalgia for defunct chains like Todai, which featured endless rows of cucumber and salmon rolls. Instead, Hamono focuses on high-quality offerings that elevate the sushi dining experience.
Initial expectations might suggest strict limitations akin to Korean barbecue stipulations, where diners face imposed restrictions on ordering. However, those concerns quickly faded upon arrival.
At Hamono, the only limitations are determined by diners’ appetites and their schedules — in this case, the need to return home for babysitting duties.
The sushi meal journey begins with a thoughtful 14-course nigiri flight, a prelude introduced by a comforting crab and white miso soup.
Following a short intermission, the first sushi platter arrives, featuring madai, himeji, kanpachi, buri, and salmon.
The selection continues with a second round starring sweet shrimp crowned with bara uni (sea urchin), accompanied by a fried shrimp head, a slice of lean tuna, togarashi-spiced squid, and Norwegian mackerel.
Then comes a singular torched scallop topped with uni and ikura, along with a black pot of chawanmushi, a Japanese egg custard filled with ikura, crab, scallops, and more uni.
Finally, guests are treated to a glorious trio of fatty tuna, uni served solo, and seared steak.
Once this introductory flight concludes, diners are free to feast on additional nigiri, sushi rolls, rice bowls, fried appetizers, or green tea cheesecake without worrying about running out.
The only stipulation is a limit on certain nigiri types — including fatty tuna, scallops, and beef — set to a maximum of three pieces per order.
The rationale behind this directive stems from concerns over excessive fish oil intake. A humorous twist, given the nature of an all-you-can-eat format.
Despite its offerings, Hamono may not claim the title of the best sushi establishment in Portland. Still, the bites sampled during the visit were satisfactory, exhibiting flavors ranging from pickled wasabi on the tuna to the crispy tempura coating of the shrimp.
In some respects, I served as an ideal customer for Hamono. As the completion of my annual restaurant guide approached, I made a conscious effort to enjoy the meal without overindulging, opting for an uni-ikura bowl, gyoza, tempura, and two extra flights of nigiri, including one entirely featuring fatty tuna, finished off with a mochi dessert.
My experience paled in comparison to tales from a talkative server, who recalled a previous guest who dramatically requested 60 pieces of hamachi and 40 salmon slices before consuming them—five at a time, using his hands. A sight to see!
So what’s the secret to Hamono’s sustainability in this pricing model? While I didn’t investigate the sourcing of ingredients like the “Hokkaido scallops” or the “A5 Wagyu from Miyazaki Prefecture,” one might wonder about the profit margins.
Even under the assumption that some menu descriptors may not reflect the exact source (for example, the “Spanish bluefin tuna” possibly being less premium), each piece still represents a significant financial investment for the restaurant.
If Hamono’s claims stand as truth, the escalating costs associated with premium ingredients like A5 Wagyu could warrant consideration for nonprofit status, humorously suggesting a 501(c)(3) designation.
To put this into context, a comparable tasting of 13 nigiri featuring lesser cuts and fewer extras is priced at $125 at Nimblefish, recognized as one of Portland’s top sushi spots.
Additionally, dining at Akizawa, a nearby restaurant, would reveal that two pieces of seared A5 Wagyu fetch $21 and boast a tenderness that Hamono’s offerings may lack.
A local sushi expert examined Hamono’s menu, estimating that using even cost-effective ingredients from a distributor could lead to tuna belly and premium cuts costing the restaurant about $2 per serving.
Given the industry’s standard practice of maintaining food costs under 30%, patrons who wish to explore beyond the initial nigiri flight could significantly impact the establishment’s profitability.
This assessment does not account for the inclusion of three basic sake glasses with the meal, which suffered from timing issues. The first pour, a plum sake that would have fared better mixed with sparkling water, arrived over half an hour into the meal.
The last pour arrived well after the initial flight was concluded, suggesting improvement could be made by offering beers or wines upon seating, benefitting both customer experience and the restaurant’s financial health.
However, such operational considerations ultimately do not burden patrons.
For sushi enthusiasts seeking an elevated experience above traditional conveyor belt offerings, Hamono poses a compelling choice, provided diners can manage a bit of fatty fish oil and spare enough hours — along with the $100 fee — for a memorable dining adventure.
That is, as long as they don’t prefer to eat with their hands.
For those interested in visiting Hamono Sushi, it operates for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Sunday, located at 620 S.W. Ninth Ave., with a contact number of 503-863-1683 and additional information at hamonosushi.com.
Reservations are required for the all-you-can-eat option.
Many guests may want to prepare with loose-fitting attire before forgoing vegetarian options, which are limited and best experienced elsewhere.
Additionally, the restaurant’s compact dining room entrance features a narrow door, necessitating two small steps from the sidewalk for access.
Convenient public transportation options nearby include MAX Blue and Red trains stopping about a block away, alongside multiple TriMet bus lines, such as line 15.
image source from：oregonlive
