The Waterfront Vancouver has been a fixture for nearly seven years, yet it appears that many locals rarely dine there. Challenges such as limited metered street parking and high garage fees, coupled with a lack of the neighborhood charm found in Downtown and Uptown Village, contribute to this observation. Additionally, the restaurants and wine bars in the area often come with a hefty price tag, which can deter casual visits.
However, the revamped Ondus On The Waterfront, located in the AC Hotel, addresses several of these concerns. This upscale lounge not only appeals to tourists but has begun drawing in locals with its inviting atmosphere.
General Manager Nicole Davidson and Floor Manager Donna Bleth, both formerly with the cherished Beaches restaurant, are two familiar faces that patrons can recognize at Ondus. Davidson noted during a recent visit that customers often remember her from her previous tenure.
In addition to the hospitality team’s familiarity, the AC Hotel provides an underground parking garage exclusively for its guests. With validated parking, diners can avoid the hassle of walking great distances or navigating the outdoors, making Ondus a more accessible dining option for those who may have hesitated in the past.
It might seem surprising to see familiar names in a chic hotel restaurant, but this is a testament to Chef Tanner Genck, the restaurant’s food and beverage director. A Culinary Institute of America graduate, Genck has traveled extensively, only to find a home in Vancouver, which he describes as a special community that has drawn him back after a brief away period.
Having spent a decade at Beaches under the mentorship of Mark Matthias and as the executive chef opening Warehouse 23, Genck has established a strong foundation in the local culinary scene. He credits Matthias with instilling in him the importance of prioritizing the guest experience over profitability.
At Ondus, Genck sought to create a more intimate dining experience rather than the ambiance of a hotel lobby. In a remarkably short two-month renovation period, he and the AC Hotel transformed the space into a welcoming restaurant environment, showcasing his swift expertise from his previous projects.
The collaborative spirit at Ondus extends to the kitchen. Genck actively involves his team, especially students from the Tod and Maxine McClaskey Culinary Institute at Clark College, in crafting new menu items. This approach not only empowers aspiring chefs but also keeps the menu fresh and representative of the dynamic culinary talent in Vancouver.
Ondus offers an extensive array of dishes, ranging from salads and appetizers to pizzas, burgers, and desserts, catering to diverse palates. The pricing is relatively reasonable, making it an attractive option for locals. During a recent outing, a table of varied dishes, along with cocktails, totaled just over $100.
While the cocktail menu originates from the AC Hotel, Genck has future plans to introduce a selection of house-made cocktails that pair with the food offerings. One standout drink is the ACGT, the AC Hotel’s unique twist on the classic gin and tonic, priced at $16 — a delightful refreshment on a warm day.
The food selection at Ondus is indeed vast. On a recent visit, I was drawn to the appetizers, beginning with the Ondus Caesar ($14), which featured a generous portion of whole anchovies. Another remarkable dish was the Loaded Papas Bravas ($12) — a sophisticated version of stuffed potato skins, showcasing crunchy Honey Gold potatoes drizzled with feta whipped with Mama Lil’s Peppers, scallions, and crispy bacon.
The Shrimp & Toast Cazuela ($15) featured seasoned shrimp swimming in garlic butter, lemon, and white wine, served sizzling alongside toasted sourdough from Portland French Bakery. A deeper dish would have allowed for easier dipping of the bread, but the flavors were impressive.
For entrees, the Tamari Salmon ($28) and Lobster Risotto ($45) offered distinct highlights. The salmon was plated elegantly on a bed of black forbidden rice and complemented by pineapple salsa, edamame, and house-made chili crisp green beans, showcasing both taste and visual appeal — a dish I would happily order again.
The Lobster Risotto was added to the menu to accommodate diners wishing for seafood without exorbitant prices, incorporating sizable chunks of Maine lobster within a creamy base. Notably, many of the entrees, including the Tamari Salmon and Fish & Chips, are gluten-free, as the kitchen uses a dedicated gluten-free fryer.
Other noteworthy menu items include the Roasted Harissa Cauliflower Steak ($18) with black rice and grilled asparagus, presented as a vegan and gluten-free option that beckoned on this visit. Additionally, the Smoked Steelhead & Dill ($14), offered as a spread with toasted pita, and the Waterfront Burger ($20), piqued my interest but were left untried this trip.
Dessert choices were equally appealing, with a range of gluten-free options crafted by Pastry Chef Rachel Regnell, also a Warehouse 23 alumnus. The dessert offerings include the Tropical Lemon Meringue ($14), Cherry Amaretto Tiramisu ($12), Carrot Cake for Two ($16), and The Dark Temptation ($14), featuring a buttermilk chocolate cake drizzled with dulce de leche and topped with Maldon salt and hazelnut cayenne roca crumbs.
Ondus also serves breakfast from 6:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. on weekdays and 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. on weekends, further enhancing its appeal as a versatile dining establishment.
Providing a blend of casual elegance with an accessible price point and stunning views of the Columbia River, Ondus On The Waterfront has carved a niche as an affordable luxury dining option. Reservations may be made for outdoor seating, but these spots operate on a first-come, first-served basis, encouraging locals to arrive early for their chance to enjoy the river views while savoring the kitchen’s diverse and intriguing menu.
image source from：columbian
