On April 2, the James Beard Foundation announced that Kumiko was named a finalist for the 2025 Outstanding Bar award, a significant recognition for the West Loop establishment owned by Julia Momosé.
At that moment, however, Momosé found herself engaged in a rather unexpected task.
“I was switching out an air filter in a little crawl space at Kumiko,” she recalled, reflecting on that hectic day.
Her phone buzzed incessantly with calls and messages from business partners and friends, revealing the magnitude of the announcement.
Momosé, who has worn many hats at Kumiko over its six-year existence—including beverage director, general manager, and social media manager—took on another critical role in late 2024 when she became the executive chef.
This transition followed Chef Josh Mummert’s announcement on December 16 that he would be stepping down from his position due to health issues related to a rare genetic disorder known as Loeys-Dietz Syndrome.
Mummert’s condition had been known to the team, as he had informed them during his hiring, but the recent news shocked everyone, especially following his receipt of a Michelin Guide Young Chef Award the week before.
Kumiko has seen its fair share of kitchen leadership changes over the years. The restaurant first received a Michelin star in 2019 under Chef Mariya Moore, who was the first Black woman to lead a kitchen to that honor. Since then, various chefs—including Emery Ebarle and Alex Cochran—have contributed their unique perspectives and techniques.
Momosé had typically promoted from within when transitioning to the chef role, which provided a sense of continuity.
Yet, with Mummert’s sudden departure, she felt as though she had to step up and fill that void.
“I felt as though it was up to me to step into that chef position,” she explained.
What began as a temporary solution soon transformed into a profound revelation, with Momosé discovering newfound joy and fulfillment in the culinary side of the restaurant.
While her background in crafting beverages was wide-ranging—including partnerships with Starbucks and recognition as a 2016 Young Gun by Eater for her work at the Michelin-starred GreenRiver—Momosé has fully embraced her responsibilities on the food side at Kumiko.
“I discovered a sense of creative fulfillment I hadn’t fully tapped into before,” Momosé said, noting that her beverage expertise still plays a crucial role in her culinary endeavors.
The night before each service, she mentally prepares for the upcoming meal, checking cover counts and ensuring that last-minute orders are placed.
In the morning, she heads to 88 Marketplace near Chinatown for ingredients, often stopping at H Mart for additional supplies.
Momosé typically arrives at the restaurant between 9 a.m. and 1 p.m., with her day starting by checking in with her team, including the prep cook and bar prep team.
Together, they discuss creative ideas for both food and drink, conducting tastings and making necessary recipe adjustments.
Wednesdays serve as a dedicated butchering day, where they break down different proteins such as hiramasa, Australian wagyu tenderloin, or A5 Miyazaki striploin.
Thursdays are set aside for making various broths and dashi, activities Momosé enjoys as fundamental components of traditional Japanese cuisine.
When the team arrives at 2:30 p.m., preparations ramp up for service, aiming for a 6 p.m. opening.
During service, Momosé adapts as needed, whether she’s expediting, line cooking, or running food to patrons, emphasizing her philosophy of removing barriers between the back-of-house and front-of-house teams.
After the last call for food at 11:15 p.m., followed by drinks at 11:30 p.m., the team gathers to review the evening’s performance, discussing areas for improvement.
Reflecting on her intense schedule, Momosé stated, “It’s really shocking how much we can do and accomplish, and sometimes we don’t know until we’re in the middle of doing it.”
As a Japanese American who grew up in Japan, Momosé has also welcomed a new culinary team, which includes Chef de Cuisine Evelyn Aloupas, previously of John’s Food & Wine and three-Michelin-starred Smyth.
“Her energy is incredible, and we balance each other out really well,” said Momosé, pointing out how they collaborate on new dishes, heralding a fresh start for Kumiko.
When Kumiko first opened in 2018, its mission was to showcase a broader spectrum of Japanese cuisine beyond sushi and ramen, focusing on dishes you would find in a Japanese wine bar or café.
Momosé’s cooking is rooted in nostalgic flavors, inspired by her family’s meals and childhood memories.
The a la carte menu at Kumiko maintains several signature dishes such as Japanese potato salad, truffle milk toast, and chicken karaage, all while evolving daily.
Japanese curry rice is a favorite of Momosé, who enjoys making slight variations to each batch, embodying a traditional Japanese mindset.
Wednesdays feature a classic katsu sando, incorporating the distinct flavors of breaded and fried Sakura pork loin, while Sundays include limited-run specials promoted on Instagram.
A $180 tasting menu requires prior notice and showcases traditional Japanese kaiseki elements, although Momosé emphasizes that her interpretation is not strictly traditional.
One of her favorite components is the final savory course, which includes soup, rice, and pickles, highlighting the nourishing and homely aspects of food.
This course incorporates onigiri alongside three varieties of Japanese pickles and a clear kombu broth, with each item referencing ingredients used in previous courses, connecting the meal’s narrative.
Momosé continues to craft the tasting menu’s beverage pairings, which feature sake and both spirited and spirit-free cocktails.
The basement counter, previously Kikko, has been transformed into a whisky and shochu bar, now offering a distinct cocktail program and the a la carte menu on weekends, with plans for expansion.
Momosé envisions reinstating a pre-fixe menu, bridging the a la carte offerings with the tasting menu for a cohesive dining experience.
“Any time anyone comes in and has a great time, that’s because of the team,” she remarked, emphasizing the importance of teamwork in the restaurant.
Her goal is to create an environment where the team feels challenged and proud of the food they serve, which she believes is being accomplished successfully.
The recognition from the James Beard Foundation has been a validating moment, but Momosé’s focus remains on the team’s collaborative spirit and the joy of creating nourishing, innovative cuisine that pushes boundaries.
“I just want to create a safe space where they are challenged in the right ways and serving and cooking food they are proud of,” she concluded.
image source from：https://chicago.eater.com/2025/4/24/24414106/kumiko-bar-chef-julia-momose
