Friday

05-30-2025 Vol 1976

The Economic and Cultural Significance of Geoducks: A Closer Look at Salish Seafoods

Salish Seafoods, a tribally owned business, operates at the crossroads of tradition and aquaculture in the heart of Puget Sound.

Offering a unique selection of seafood that includes wild salmon and farmed clams, oysters, and notably, geoducks, this company exemplifies a commitment to sustainable practices and community support.

Despite their significant presence in the seafood market, many people remain unfamiliar with geoducks, let alone how to pronounce their name, which is ‘gooey-duck.’

Farming geoducks not only provides economic benefits but also supports rich cultural traditions and environmental health in the region.

Geoducks, large filter-feeding clams native to Washington, have unique anatomical features, including a relatively small shell and a long siphon that can extend up to three feet when fully grown.

This siphon allows geoducks to efficiently filter-feed, drawing in water to remove excess algae, thereby cleaning and clarifying the water, which promotes the growth of aquatic vegetation.

Growing geoducks is a labor-intensive process requiring hands-on work, and entering the world of geoduck farming is akin to stepping into the life of operations manager Rod Schuffenhauer.

Rod reflects on his upbringing in the aquaculture industry, having grown up alongside his father’s leadership in the Pacific Northwest’s clam sector.

“I grew up on the tides from when I was able to walk,” he shares, illustrating how rooted he is in this work.

His journey has woven through years of hands-on experience in aquaculture, allowing him to appreciate the nuances and challenges that come with it.

Balancing the demands of the job with the joys of witnessing wildlife and working with dedicated colleagues adds fulfillment to Rod’s career at Salish Seafoods.

Salish Seafoods began cultivating geoducks in 2013, a continuation of the Coast Salish peoples’ longstanding relationship with these clams as an important food source.

The company’s operations on Squaxin Island, which boasts uninhabited, pristine water ideal for native shellfish, reflect the Squaxin Island Tribe’s deep commitment to stewardship.

Founded in 1970, the business prioritizes sustainability, environmental care, and community, highlighting the responsibility passed down through generations of the Squaxin Island Tribe, known as the People of the Water.

Rod states, “The community supports each other, and the tribe wants to make sure everybody is cared for,” emphasizing the cultural importance of interconnectedness within the tribe.

This sense of responsibility is evident in Salish Seafoods’ mission to support tribal fishermen, purchasing directly from tribal members to ensure fair industry compensation.

In 2024 alone, Salish Seafoods purchased an impressive 900,000 pounds of product from tribal fishermen, channeling around $2 million back into the local community.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, when the seafood market struggled, Rod’s immediate concern was for his community.

He and his team took proactive steps to combat food insecurity by donating 25 pounds of shellfish to every household on the reservation, showcasing the tribe’s enduring commitment to care and support.

The intricate process of farming geoducks is closely tied to the rhythms of the tides.

Each phase, from seeding to harvesting, is conducted by hand, requiring a dedicated effort from the team.

Rod and his colleagues begin by purchasing small geoduck seeds and placing them into six-inch-wide PVC tubes situated along the sandy beaches.

To safeguard the baby geoducks from predators until they grow large enough to burrow beneath the sand, the tubes are topped with protective netting.

Once the geoducks have buried themselves about ten inches deep, the tubes are removed, allowing the clams to continue growing until they reach a harvest size of about two pounds after five years.

While Salish Seafoods offers clams and oysters for retail purchase, the market for geoducks remains primarily wholesale.

Rod expresses his enthusiasm for various geoduck preparations, noting their exquisite taste in dishes such as fried, chowders, and ceviche.

He adds, “The only comparison I have for the geoduck is that it’s very similar to a razor clam.

The neck is tougher and chewier, but the body is incredibly tender.

The sweetness that comes out of it is just indescribable.”

Interestingly, geoducks are some of the oldest shellfish available today, with the oldest recorded geoduck reaching an impressive age of 168 years.

To celebrate the culinary possibilities of geoducks, a delicious recipe for Geoduck Chowder showcases the clam’s versatility.

With ingredients such as melted butter, garlic, diced vegetables, geoduck meat, and half & half, this hearty chowder captures the rich flavors of the Pacific Northwest while honoring the tribe’s legacy.

In conclusion, Salish Seafoods stands not just as a seafood provider but as a beacon of cultural heritage and environmental stewardship, intertwining economic success with community and sustainability.

Through the farming of geoducks and commitment to the tribe, they are ensuring that these traditions continue for generations to come.

image source from:https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/feature-story/meet-salish-seafoods-geoduck-farmers-washington

Charlotte Hayes